[TommyV]

What's up? I have what is relatively a simple question, but have gotten several different answers. I live in Northern Kentucky, and own a 1996 zx6r that I've had for about a week and a half. I plan on changing the oil in it soon, so I went to the local dealer to buy a filter and oil. The owner before me said that he ran only synthetic (Castrol Syntec) in the bike. I told the dealer this, and he said that he never would use synthetic oil in any of his bikes. He suggested that I should change over to natural. What do you think?

 

[TommyV]

Oh yeah, I don't log on here a whole lot, so could you e mail your response to [email protected]? Thanks.


Keep the rubber side down.[}]

 

[silver_6r]

I wouldn't suggest switching back to natural oils from synthetic. It's alright to do the opposite but going from synthetic to natural tends to be a bad idea.

--- '03 zx6r

 

[GreenEnvy]

Im too lazy to email

Synthetic is a bad idea on a brand new engine, but once it's got a couple thousand miles on it there should be no problem.
The issue on new engines is glazing, but once an engine gets broken in, thats not a problem.

I'd stick with what's in there now, synthetic


-=Welcome To Canada=-

2002 Green 6R
1986 Gixxer 7/11

 

[bladecutter]

Actually it doesn't matter if you go from synthetic to conventional, or vice-versa, you can mix the two together if you felt so inclined. Won't hurt anything at all.

But I highly recommend NOT using Castrol Syntech. I used that stuff in my bike for 3k miles, and the bike ran rough, clutch felt like it was made of wood, got the worst gas mileage I've ever seen on a Ninja 250, and as soon as I changed the oil over to another brand of synthetic, everything returned to normal.

BC.


I didn't do it, I swear.
And even if I did, what makes you think I would admit it to you?

 

[csoto23]

what should the oil change interval be for synthetic? I change my regular oil every 2k miles.

 

[HooliganTSi]

3K at the least...2K is a little overdoing it IMO. Esp. with synthetic oil changing every 2k can get more expensive. On my car I do extended oil changes with synthetic 4-5k and I run Mobil 1. I've heard plenty of people doin 5k oil changes on cars running synthetic with no problems. On a sportbike though I would recommend just doin it every 3k.

Edit: Also there is no problem with goin from synthetic to dino oil. The two can indeed mix and match (such as the case in synthetic blend oils). And the little residue left over after draining out the synthetic and putting in regular is no issue. The only thing is that is not recommended is mixing oil brands...Such as mixing a castrol synthetic 10w30 and mobil 1 10w30. I think the reasoning behind this is because the two oils use very different bases. Mobil 1 is a pure synthetic while castrol syntec is supposedly a high base dino oil with many additives. Be careful...you may not always get as pure synthetic as you think. Mobil 1 or Amsoil are pretty pure good synthetics.

Phil
1998 Kawasaki ZX6R Ninja
Let the good times roll!

 

[mark emmerson]

Change your OIL every 2k is a good idea. But i would recomend using SEMI SYNTHETIC. Later EMU U.K.

mark emmerson

 

[Zorac]

For bikes should you be using motorbike oils? I normally use motul 5100, which is a semi synth, but has additives because of the wet clutch and trans, etc that normally arent dealt with in a car engine.

 

[swjohnsey]

They would like for you to believe that to justify charging you twice as much as a comparable car oil.

 

[shadee]

What kind of oils are everyone using, and how many miles have you put the bikes you have now, or previous bikes? Just to get a general consensus of what most people are using?

-Cops want a hot pursuit, so entertain them! -Shadee

 

[eltorito]

I am using Amsoil Synthetic. My bike has 5000 miles so far. Maybe 5300 by tomorrow if the weather holds!!

Let Saddam come and play!

 

[Cambridgezx6r]

I use full synthetic Mobil 1 car oil 15w40 (or is that 50?!). I actually just ride 3000-4000 km with it in it.

Then I drain it from my bike and use it in my van for another 3000 km.



'00 ZX6R silver

 

[Liambane]

The only time that I wouldn't switch from dino oil to synthetic is if dino oil was only run in an engine that has a LOT of miles on it. The thing about dino oil is that it will get a little gummy and actually clog up small leaks. Switching to syn oil will break up these clogs and gummy deposits and you could end up with a leaky engine.

You don't have to be faster then the bear, just faster then your friend.

 

[TommyV]

Thanks for all the help. I am now running Mobil 1 MX4T in my bike, which is a full synthetic. The clutch actually is running a bit smoother now then when I first pulled it out of the garage after winter. Expensive oil, but worth it.


-keep the rubber side down.[}]

 

[TUKNGO]

I switched to a semi, EXP something, I can't remember the name but it is for bikes not cars. I'm going full this season but what I noticed right away was smoother acceleration, cooler running temp and what I thought was cool was when I took off hard on the throttle and hit 10 - 101/2 on the RPM my front end came up, didn't do that on conventional. Anyway there's my 2 cents. []

"Tuck and Go"

 

[diirk]

As someone else said, there's no problem switching from dino to synth or back. The only issue is mixing brands of synth. Also, switching to synth on high mileage engines can be troublesome, depending on the condition of the engine. If you do so, stay with a higher viscosity synth. One of the benefits of synth is being able to run lower viscosity while maintaining protection for the engine. The lower the viscosity, the lower the friction, the better the mileage and power.
I used to run Redline and have also run Motul and Bel Ray. I'm swithching to Amsoil next. They have a 0W-40 just for bikes. This oil has no friction modifiers which may make the clutch slip.

Diirk
'99 ZX6R
'02 Raptor
'01 Wolverine
'87 Radian (for sale)

 

[tommyboynjataol]

Originally posted by diirk

I'm swithching to Amsoil next. They have a 0W-40 just for bikes. This oil has no friction modifiers which may make the clutch slip.

Isnt it the opposite? Dont friction modifiers aka envirnmentally friendy oil cause clutch slippige. I know thats a big reason to stay away from LOW viscosity oils, like anything lower than 10w40. For instance your 0w-40. Also I didnt know they made oil in 0 weight.

 

[Speedvlaze]

Originally posted by shadee

What kind of oils are everyone using, and how many miles have you put the bikes you have now, or previous bikes? Just to get a general consensus of what most people are using?

I run Mobil 1 (15w50).

 

[desmokwan]

I've never seen anyone actually need full synthetic on any bike with a wet clutch. I change my oil every race weekend and could never afford to run full synth anyhow with that many changes...even with sponsorship prices! I always run full synth Mobil 1 in my cars...only Motul semi-synth in my street and race bikes.

My 98 ZX9R race-only superbike would get major clutch slipping with full synth...no problems with semi synthetic. Motul high temp brake fluid is also replaced every race weekend...damn hydroscopic fluid, and damn those micro-bubbles!



I was rich, then I went racing!?