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Going to be installing the SharkSkinz upper on my 09 ZX-6R this weekend...just wondering if anyone has any general tips that'll help me tackle this a little less blind.
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-Cody
-Cody
Tips on Installing Track Plastics / Body work ?
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Fit it to the belly pan before fitting it to the bike. Lay the upper on but don't drill or attach anything. Slide the belly under and connect the two. Install the whole body while all of the pieces are connected...this will keep the seams tight.
Sharkskinz is the best you can buy. Their hole marks should be pretty much perfect for drilling but don't take that for granted. Drill each hole with the smallest bit you can find and make sure the holes line up before drilling them to the final size.
Use your OEM bolts and hardware to attach the body to the bike. If you have any large holes that use a rubber grommet, use a VariBit to ream them out to the proper size.
Sharkskinz is the best you can buy. Their hole marks should be pretty much perfect for drilling but don't take that for granted. Drill each hole with the smallest bit you can find and make sure the holes line up before drilling them to the final size.
Use your OEM bolts and hardware to attach the body to the bike. If you have any large holes that use a rubber grommet, use a VariBit to ream them out to the proper size.
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Okay...one question:
On my factory upper inner fairing, it has a couple of ends that go into holes in the frame as shown here:
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Holes in the frame:
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As you can see in the last picture, it has a little threaded nut on the inside of the track bodywork. WTF am I supposed to do with that?
Other than that, I'd say the fit is 8.5/10. My biggest complaint is where it meets the instrument cluser. As you can see in the picture, there's a small lip on the track plastics right where it meets the instrument cluster. If you look closely, the lip is smaller on the left than it is on the right, causing the gap to appear bigger on the left side when the body work it actually lined up correctly. Even on the right side where there's less of a gap, the lip is actually smaller than the stock lip, which explains why theres a gap at all. I'm going to eventually try and find a thin piece of rubber I can put there so you cant see it...even though its behind the windscreen and not that noticeable anyway.
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I still have quite a bit of work to do to make the factory lower fit since it bolts up and has tabs I'll have to account for as well. The only holes I've drilled are the ones you see, so I still have to do the windscreen which goes directly into the body work as well. Then the main mounts, dremel out the sliders and do the lower. Oh, and finish figuring out a way to mount the rectifier which was attached to the factory body work. Sounds like fun huh?
Before I do anything else I'm going to fit the lower so, like Green said, everything else will line up properly.
Thanks for the advice!
-Cody
On my factory upper inner fairing, it has a couple of ends that go into holes in the frame as shown here:
Holes in the frame:
As you can see in the last picture, it has a little threaded nut on the inside of the track bodywork. WTF am I supposed to do with that?
Other than that, I'd say the fit is 8.5/10. My biggest complaint is where it meets the instrument cluser. As you can see in the picture, there's a small lip on the track plastics right where it meets the instrument cluster. If you look closely, the lip is smaller on the left than it is on the right, causing the gap to appear bigger on the left side when the body work it actually lined up correctly. Even on the right side where there's less of a gap, the lip is actually smaller than the stock lip, which explains why theres a gap at all. I'm going to eventually try and find a thin piece of rubber I can put there so you cant see it...even though its behind the windscreen and not that noticeable anyway.
I still have quite a bit of work to do to make the factory lower fit since it bolts up and has tabs I'll have to account for as well. The only holes I've drilled are the ones you see, so I still have to do the windscreen which goes directly into the body work as well. Then the main mounts, dremel out the sliders and do the lower. Oh, and finish figuring out a way to mount the rectifier which was attached to the factory body work. Sounds like fun huh?
Before I do anything else I'm going to fit the lower so, like Green said, everything else will line up properly.
Thanks for the advice!
-Cody
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heres a good video series
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3,843 Posts
thanks. ill look at it in the morning.
Hopefully lowes / home depot has well nuts. The ones on the bike dont seem like they'll come out without being destroyed
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-Cody
Hopefully lowes / home depot has well nuts. The ones on the bike dont seem like they'll come out without being destroyed
-Cody
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37,014 Posts
cyclegear has them.thanks. ill look at it in the morning.
Hopefully lowes / home depot has well nuts. The ones on the bike dont seem like they'll come out without being destroyed
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-Cody
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90 Posts
Hey bud, it's lookin great . You can just use zip ties through two holes to keep the shield in, it helps if you crash (so I hear). I know it looks kinda ghetto but I've crashed enough times to appreciate it . I finished mounting up the upper bodywork yesterday night (looks like we got done at the same time). Here's the result:
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I actually reached down and touched the rectifier (sounded inappropriate there for a second) after parking the bike and was surprised to see how hot it was. Is that normal? I know the fins are there for a reason, but is it possible to restrict the airflow enough for it to overheat? I don't want to be caught without a battery!
. You can just use zip ties through two holes to keep the shield in, it helps if you crash (so I hear). I know it looks kinda ghetto but I've crashed enough times to appreciate it . I finished mounting up the upper bodywork yesterday night (looks like we got done at the same time). Here's the result: 
I actually reached down and touched the rectifier (sounded inappropriate there for a second) after parking the bike and was surprised to see how hot it was. Is that normal? I know the fins are there for a reason, but is it possible to restrict the airflow enough for it to overheat? I don't want to be caught without a battery
!
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3,843 Posts
I never touched it before, but I know when dealing with amplifiers, having a hot heat sink was good as it meant it was pulling the heat away from the important stuff. I don't know how hot is too hot though.
Mines under the seat currently. I'm semi contemplating moving it by the rear shock...that's where it is on the 07-08s. I haven't looked into this at all though...I just saw an 08 and was like hey...I wonder if I can do that with mine...
Here was mine when I took it to the track:
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Here's what it looks like now after 2 hours and some painters tape...I suck at photoshop so this was my next best option...haha. Still not done though...hopefully tonight
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-Cody
Mines under the seat currently. I'm semi contemplating moving it by the rear shock...that's where it is on the 07-08s. I haven't looked into this at all though...I just saw an 08 and was like hey...I wonder if I can do that with mine...
Here was mine when I took it to the track:
Here's what it looks like now after 2 hours and some painters tape...I suck at photoshop so this was my next best option...haha. Still not done though...hopefully tonight
-Cody
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