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I would guess whoever put that hoop on the front didn't bother to correct the overall geometry of the bike. It's up to you what to alter, the idea is to find a set-up to get the bike to corner the way you want. Raising the rear end effectively steepens the steering angle and shortens trail. So does dropping the forks through the yokes, however, be weary not to lower it too much for you will find the fender slamming into the fairing on the brakes - which makes it really interesting trying to get around some tighter bends I'm sure!

I'd put a /70 section on the front as it tends to offer more mid-corner feel. As for the rear, a 170 will suit you fine unless it's putting out 120 hp and you're really into doing track days.

Check out my photo link for a nice photo of an 00' ZX-6R with the rear ride hide up 9mm and the forks dropped 3mm. It's essentially the same bike as yours with different bodywork and a lightly breathed on chassis. You too can wheelie out of corners on the throttle :D

Say NO! to Chicken Strips
 

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so your saying a 120/70 front and 170/60 rear? or 55?

also, as my question before, how come people raise their front when putting on the 120/70 front instead of dropping it down some?


Originally posted by Strong Bad

I would guess whoever put that hoop on the front didn't bother to correct the overall geometry of the bike. It's up to you what to alter, the idea is to find a set-up to get the bike to corner the way you want. Raising the rear end effectively steepens the steering angle and shortens trail. So does dropping the forks through the yokes, however, be weary not to lower it too much for you will find the fender slamming into the fairing on the brakes - which makes it really interesting trying to get around some tighter bends I'm sure!

I'd put a /70 section on the front as it tends to offer more mid-corner feel. As for the rear, a 170 will suit you fine unless it's putting out 120 hp and you're really into doing track days.

Check out my photo link for a nice photo of an 00' ZX-6R with the rear ride hide up 9mm and the forks dropped 3mm. It's essentially the same bike as yours with different bodywork and a lightly breathed on chassis. You too can wheelie out of corners on the throttle :D

Say NO! to Chicken Strips
 

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Raise, lower it is all the same. What they are doing is moving the fork tube up in the tripple clamps. This will lower the front. Moving the top of the fork tube up about 6mm will compensate for the 120/70 front.
 

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if you have the tools to do it and are willing to be sitting higher, jack up the rear ride height.

check out sportrider.com's tech section, they have a article about height adjustment. (including a formula for finding out how much the suspension needs to dropped/raised)
 

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ok, from what i understand...when you put a bigger front tire on, you would have to lower the front end to compensate for the new height the front tire is giving you.

so why is it that from the majority of poeple on here that change their tires from 120/65 to 120/70, they end up raising the front? aren't you suppose to drop the front because the front is sitting higher now?

ok, so now i need to ask for some advice. i have a 99zx6r with 120/60/17 and 180/55/17, stock is 120/60/17 and 170/60/17. since my rear tire is lower profile. should i drop the front end some? or raise the rear height. I want to make my bike as flickable around corners as possible. I don't really care about straight lining.

i bought the bike with these tires already fitted. if it were up to me, i would have kept the 170 rear b/c from what i understand, a smaller rear would make the bike turn in quicker
 

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Your 180 may not be shorter than the 170. Even though the size suggests it's 99 mm instead of 102 mm because you're taking something that's wider and putting it onto the same size of rim it tends to arch the rear tire and curve it more. I personally hate my 180 and this is the last time I'm buying one. I just like the look of a fat tire.

Dan...comfortable enough with his manhood to ride a 600.
 
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