I don't have this bike, but a service manual should fill in the gaps here. In general, you'll need a stand that will lift the front end by the tripletree. There should be a hole on the under side that you can slip the pin into and lift the front end up. You likely will want to remove the front faring when doing so.
For removing things, it's going to be alan keys and sockets. The service manual will indicate the correct size. Make sure that you have something with which to support the brakes calipers when you remove them. This goes doubly if you don't have stainless steel lines. But, even if you do, it's a good idea to do so. This is a great time to replace the lines with stainless steel if you're thinking of doing so. (I've had great luck with Venhill lines, easy install, nice look and great feel)
Make sure that you have an appropriate torque wrench for when you reassemble.
Lastly, make sure that you've got an appropriate cotter pin. Personally, I use safety pins rather than cotter pins, especially on the back. For the front, a cotter pin is fine, you're not likely to take the wheel off very often, but the rear, I definitely encourage a safety pin because you'll be loosening that just about every time you do some chain maintenance. something like .091 x 2-3/4" Safety Pins, Steel, 1/PKG , I think that's the right diameter, but I can't remember. Having a safety pin is a huge improvement over the standard cotter pins as you can reusue them virtually forever.
Let's say that hypothetically, while doing a valve adjustment, you take off the camshafts and camchain tensioner and then spin the crank shafts an unknown amount of times until you land at TDC #1,4. How would you know if you're on the compression stroke of 1 or the compression stroke of 4...
Would I need to take the engine off in order to reset the timing on the cam chain?
I lost the timing when I took off the camshaft cover which took the exhaust camshaft with it enough to take the camshaft chain off the sprockets. I would prefer not to take the engine off.
I'm wondering if...
I bought a mate's 05 ZX6R recently and learnt it kills batteries pretty fast. He just got around this by leaving it on a tender but I'd like to track down the issue. First off, I can't find in the manual what the normal current draw should be when the bike is off but mine is bouncing between...
Whats up peoples
So the bike is a 2006 ZX6R 636D and the only way to completely kill the bike is to disconnect the negative battery cable.
The stop switch works to stop the engine while its running but the ignition switch does nothing (you can ride the bike with the ignition switch in the off...
Some of you have asked to try my new custom map file.
It gained me 6 HP instantly. It is for the 2005-6 ZX6R with an Akrapovic slip-on and a high flow air filter.
Click the link below to download it:
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