There is no loctite on them but they are really hard to get out. I ended up heating the bolts up with a hairdryer and one of them came free but the other still stripped so I had to notch it. Good luck!
Mine were hard to get out as well.. Make sure you use 5mm allen key socket because its really hard with allen keys or T handle syle allen keys.. Thats half the
fun though.. wait till you have to line up the tank mount and dampner bracket when you go to put them back in.. It took me about 45 min.. Thought for sure
I was going to need my tap and dye set.. I got it eventually.. Oh make sure you
make note of the cable positioning under the tank when you set it back down.
I think it would of been easier to remove the dampner before the bracket. or just the middle off dampner .. one security torx bolt..
im not lookin at my bike right now but i believe they go into the frame? correct?
as long as thats the case, start the bike and let it warm up.. if you've never noticed, the frame gets really warm when the engine is running. Id say its worth a shot before you end up stripping them out
Nice cut !
I guess you eventually got a flat blade screwdriver to it.
With stubborn nuts & bolts, I've found over the years that gradually increasing the level of applied torque, in order to loosen it, is more likely to result in rounding off/tearing of the hex profile (either internal or external).
I've had far more success with the 'short sharp shock' method, ideally with an impact driver if the first attempt with a ratchet or spanner (wrench) is unsuccessful.
In some situations, applying a little heat (with a blow torch) prior to using the ratchet, works a treat, though in this situation I appreciate that the use of a blow torch would be plain stupid.
I am replacing all the bolts that I can. I am ordering grade 8 or better stainless bolt to replace all these soft aluminum peices of crap. I guess I found all the weight we lost. Its in the cheap bolts.
Maybe it was just me but I had a bitch of a time aligning the right side bolt through the dampner bracket and rubber tank mount... the mount would keep moving on the tank,.. maybe 45 mins was a little exaggerated
It sucked ass none the less..
Old thread same problem.... okay, so I notched the bolt with my dremel but still couldnt get it to budge with the flat head screwdriver. Then I went and tried an EZ-out, and it didn't F%^&#NG work so now, what the heck to I do? Both EZ-outs broke off even though I followed the instructions.
Some guy at work who's pretty handy suggested I dremel off the head of the bolt until i am able to just pull up on the tank and then use a wrench to twist out the stem of the bolt. Good idea or no? I'm basically stuck... i have my PCV waiting to be installed....
When I worked at a chevy dealership we had problems with torque converter bolts that were hex head. We would take a small pry bar and put a notch in the head, then angle the pry par so that when you hit it with a hammer it will turn the bolt out. You deff have to be careful with it since if you skip you can damage other parts. Try that as a last resort I guess. It really sucks when hex head bolts are over tightened.
I am having issues with my cluster gauges and although I have found similar forums nothing has a definitive answer that has worked for me yet, so I am starting a new post in hopes someone can help me fix my issue.
I have an 09' ZX-6R, just out of storage had it running perfectly last...
2009 zx6r problems.
Ok so this bullshit fiasco all started back in September. I was riding my bike and all the sudden it just completely lost all power. Got it on a trailer, ECU fuse was shot, battery was dead, etc. Took it home and it sat for a bit. Checked the Fuel Control Module/Relay...
Hi, if I install slip-on that have no exup do a need to do some remapping or something like that? Will something happen to the engine if I install the slip-on? I'm new in riding and I can't find satisfyinig answer to my question.
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