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My top tank bolts that hold the steering damper are frozen must have lock tight on them and they feel like the heads are going to strip any suggestions?
 

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I ran into the same problem. The would not budge for anything. They ended up stripping, and I had to used one of those stripped bolt drill attachments to get them out. Sorry i can't be more help.
 

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There is no loctite on them but they are really hard to get out. I ended up heating the bolts up with a hairdryer and one of them came free but the other still stripped so I had to notch it. Good luck!
 

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Mine were hard to get out as well.. Make sure you use 5mm allen key socket because its really hard with allen keys or T handle syle allen keys.. Thats half the
fun though.. wait till you have to line up the tank mount and dampner bracket when you go to put them back in.. It took me about 45 min.. Thought for sure
I was going to need my tap and dye set.. I got it eventually.. Oh make sure you
make note of the cable positioning under the tank when you set it back down.

I think it would of been easier to remove the dampner before the bracket. or just the middle off dampner .. one security torx bolt..
Good luck.. :)
 

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im not lookin at my bike right now but i believe they go into the frame? correct?

as long as thats the case, start the bike and let it warm up.. if you've never noticed, the frame gets really warm when the engine is running. Id say its worth a shot before you end up stripping them out
 

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Try an 'impact driver' with the allen (hex) key bit.
 

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Oh.. you mean this damn bolt..

 

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Nice cut !
I guess you eventually got a flat blade screwdriver to it.

With stubborn nuts & bolts, I've found over the years that gradually increasing the level of applied torque, in order to loosen it, is more likely to result in rounding off/tearing of the hex profile (either internal or external).

I've had far more success with the 'short sharp shock' method, ideally with an impact driver if the first attempt with a ratchet or spanner (wrench) is unsuccessful.

In some situations, applying a little heat (with a blow torch) prior to using the ratchet, works a treat, though in this situation I appreciate that the use of a blow torch would be plain stupid.
 

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Mine were also very difficult to remove, glad I found this post, I thought I was the only one destroying bolt heads.
 

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I am replacing all the bolts that I can. I am ordering grade 8 or better stainless bolt to replace all these soft aluminum peices of crap. I guess I found all the weight we lost. :) Its in the cheap bolts.
 
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For me they were tight the first time I needed to take them out , as for 45 minutes to align the tank is a little messed up .

Maybe it was just me but I had a bitch of a time aligning the right side bolt through the dampner bracket and rubber tank mount... the mount would keep moving on the tank,.. maybe 45 mins was a little exaggerated :D
It sucked ass none the less..
 

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Old thread same problem.... okay, so I notched the bolt with my dremel but still couldnt get it to budge with the flat head screwdriver. Then I went and tried an EZ-out, and it didn't F%^&#NG work so now, what the heck to I do? Both EZ-outs broke off even though I followed the instructions.

Some guy at work who's pretty handy suggested I dremel off the head of the bolt until i am able to just pull up on the tank and then use a wrench to twist out the stem of the bolt. Good idea or no? I'm basically stuck... i have my PCV waiting to be installed....
 
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When I worked at a chevy dealership we had problems with torque converter bolts that were hex head. We would take a small pry bar and put a notch in the head, then angle the pry par so that when you hit it with a hammer it will turn the bolt out. You deff have to be careful with it since if you skip you can damage other parts. Try that as a last resort I guess. It really sucks when hex head bolts are over tightened.
 
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