Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been PM'd about this a few times, so I thought I would just write this so kkim and a few of the other regulars can point people to it like they do so well with other threads, lol!

Don't forget to +rep! :p

Its so easy to do there are no pics. If you can't figure it out, please purchase a new slide/diaphragm.

So anyways, I was putting my carbs back together one afternoon and saw light through one of the diaphragms. There was a split like someone knicked it with a razor. I am still not quite sure how I split the thing to begin with, pisses me off to think about it again... grrrrr... I was wanting to ride that afternoon and not wanting to spend the $100 or something for a new diaphragm I decided to TRY and fix it... with success! Here is how:

Anyways, ever patch a bicycle tire tube? Its exactly the same concept. Go to your local Walmart (most bicycle shops don't sell them, they'd rather sell you a new tube) and go to the bicycle section where they keep all the tires. Get a patch kit. Its like $2 or something. My patch kit has been in my toolbox since I was a kid so I used that.

The patches that come in the kit are a little thick, so I used a leftover piece of thin rubber that was in my toolbox from a project about 16 years ago. You can try to use one of the thick patches, unless you busted through the edge of the diaphragm, then you will need something thinner. For something thinner, you can try using a cheap bicycle tube and cut out a small piece about the size of a postage stamp. You can even try a black rubber electrical tape with the rubber cement from the repair kit.

1. Cut a patch out a 1/4" bigger than the hole or split or tear in your diaphragm.

2. When applying the patch, center it as nearly as possible over the puncture.

3. It's much easier to get a patch to stay on the diaphragm if you clean the area well, use a little piece of sandpaper or the little buffing tool that comes in the patch kit to rough up the surface of the diaphragm around the tear *ON THE TOP SIDE OF THE DIAPHRAGM* as big as the patch will be just a little, then clean it again after scratching it up real good. BE CAREFUL NOT TO TEAR THE HOLE BIGGER! I recommend top side because the gasoline fumes are not as likely to get in there.

4. Apply rubber cement (I like the smell) from the kit to the diaphragm in an area larger than the patch. Also apply rubber cement to the thin rubber patch and let it dry until it looks a little milky on the surface before applying the patch to the diaphragm. Don't be afraid of using too much, make sure the patch is completely covered! I don't recommend licking off the excess, it doesn't taste as nice as it smells.

5. Press the patch onto the split area, and rub the patch into in firmly and hold it with your thumb for a few minutes. Don't use a death grip or each minute will seem like forever and you might let go too soon or pass out from exhaustion.

If you got it all correctly, the patch should stay on there, let it dry for a couple hours sufficiently before trying to install it. Put your carbs back together and be careful not to bust another hole!

So anyways, the thing has been holding up now for months, no problems, no headaches, no strangeness. I've taken the carbs apart for a re-tune a few weeks ago and its still holding strong. If it falls apart or causes a problem, I'll replace it. Until then, weeeeeeeee!

*do not attempt this method for feminine contraceptive repairs*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Instead of the tire repair kit, I used a vinyl repair kit, because it more similar to the rubber diaphragm

it's thin, water proof and elastic when dried, but waiting for it to dry

so I'll install it tomorrow and see how it goes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Instead of the tire repair kit, I used a vinyl repair kit, because it more similar to the rubber diaphragm

it's thin, water proof and elastic when dried, but waiting for it to dry

so I'll install it tomorrow and see how it goes
Cool, hope it adheres properly! Looking forward to the update!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
ok after I repaired the diaphragm, started the bike, and it seems fine. When I rev it, it stalled. Start up again, rev it and it died. What could be the problem?

When I took everything apart; the springs, white plastic, needle, ect... Maybe I installed the parts incorrectly.



This is what I did, I put the white plastic inside the diaphragm, and slid it into the carburetor, then I put the needle with the washers into the diaphragm. Loaded the spring and the cap, and tighten the screws.

When my diaphragm was torn I cant go over 7k rpm, now it can't even rev
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
sounds like Kurosaki's problem

OK, well my story was a strange one compared to others.

I originally shimmed the bike with 2 washers when it was stock except removed snorkel. That was way too rich. Could barely get the thing to rev past 3-4k. Stalled a bunch of times on its own. Took out 1 washer and it was 'better' but still much worse compared to stock. I was able to get it into higher RPM but it felt weak and down on power.

I changed to an Area P quiet core and thought it would be necessary for some shimming to get it to run right. So I shimmed with 2 washers again at the same time as the exhaust install. To my surprise, the bike was acting the same as it did stock when I added 2 washers. :dunno: Tried 1 washer again and same results. A little better but still rich and running very poorly. Terrible response, studdering, etc.

I ended up putting the needles back to stock and as of now this is where I left it. AreaP, snorkel out, no shimming and the bike runs great.



*Did my bike suddenly become too rich? will try to take out all the washers and see what's up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
well it doesnt make sense then, when I shimmed it a month ago , it was alot better.

warmed up faster, responsive at low rpm

then last week, no power after 7k rpm

then i found out the diaphragms torn

patched it up nicely, a perfect seal

started the bike, idles fine, then when rev , it stutters , and if i rev higher than 3k, it dies.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
well it doesnt make sense then, when I shimmed it a month ago , it was alot better.

warmed up faster, responsive at low rpm

then last week, no power after 7k rpm

then i found out the diaphragms torn

patched it up nicely, a perfect seal

started the bike, idles fine, then when rev , it stutters , and if i rev higher than 3k, it dies.
sorry, I'm a bit confused.:confused: How many washers do you have in now and how is it running now?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
ok, when I first did the mod, I put in 2 washers in each needle, it ran better, but i probably clipped the diaphragm, and the tear wasn't large enough to effect anything

a month later, the tear got huge, and I started losing power after 7k rpm

I patched it up with rubber repair kit, and put the needles in with their 2 washers

fired up the bike, it idles, but unstable idle, when i rev pass 3k it dies

I went back and took out a washer from each needle, so only 1 washer shimmed each

put the bike together, fired her up, similar situation, unstable idle and it stalls when rev pass 3k
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Okay, I know you don't want to hear this, but take out all your shims and put the needles back completely to stock, just to see where you are to use as a base.

Last thought... Are you sure you have the choke cable adjusted properly and it is in fact turning off when you close it at the bar? The proper choke cable measurement is covered in the owner's manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
yes, the choke was properly off, because i used the choke to turn on, and it revs to 2k, then i turn it off, and it dropped to 1.3ish so I know the choke is working properly. Afterward the idle moves to 1k, then 1.3k, 1.5k ect, if i rev it dies.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
560 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
This is what I did, I put the white plastic inside the diaphragm, and slid it into the carburetor, then I put the needle with the washers into the diaphragm. Loaded the spring and the cap, and tighten the screws.

When my diaphragm was torn I cant go over 7k rpm, now it can't even rev
Y

The washers go on the needles, then the needles drop into the slides. Be careful not to let the washers fall off when dropping the needles down in there. The white plastic clip goes ON TOP of the needle, not underneath. If you put it underneath you are probably running super rich in mid range, this would explain the bogging down at about 3k. Not having the needle under the white plastic bit also doesn't keep the needle retained properly in the seat by the spring tension. The needle can and will bounce all over the place... making it run even MORE rich!

I almost made that mistake too last April when I took mine apart. That white plastic ferrule sort of looks like the need belongs going through it. Easy mistake to make.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top