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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I just bought a slavaged '05 636 and want to know what you all have done to get your bikes trackworthy. I am NOT spending money on the engine for a 4 HP gain until the suspension is well dialed in or is fully upgraded.


1.)Disable tip over sensor: I just posted a tread to find out how.

2.) Bodywork: Sharkskins offer less hassle and good quality so I will either buy those or perhaps from OPP where they have carbon fiber that will not need paint.

3.) I weigh 210 lbs with leathers so I am thinking of getting fork springs and a possible re-valve.

4.) Do I need to do anything with the shock right away?

5.) I will buy HH brake pads and stainless steel brake lines after a couple of days to see what difference that makes. Any brand suggestions?

6.) Tire sizes: I like Pirelli Diablo Corsa and Michelin Pilot Power tires - should I get a 120/70 for the front?

7.) Steering Damper: after I start getting the front end up or feel the headshake. How many of you bought steering dampers?

What else do you suggest?
 

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Originally posted by NorCal
Hi all,

I just bought a slavaged '05 636 and want to know what you all have done to get your bikes trackworthy. I am NOT spending money on the engine for a 4 HP gain until the suspension is well dialed in or is fully upgraded.


1.)Disable tip over sensor: I just posted a tread to find out how.

2.) Bodywork: Sharkskins offer less hassle and good quality so I will either buy those or perhaps from OPP where they have carbon fiber that will not need paint.

3.) I weigh 210 lbs with leathers so I am thinking of getting fork springs and a possible re-valve.

4.) Do I need to do anything with the shock right away?

5.) I will buy HH brake pads and stainless steel brake lines after a couple of days to see what difference that makes. Any brand suggestions?

6.) Tire sizes: I like Pirelli Diablo Corsa and Michelin Pilot Power tires - should I get a 120/70 for the front?

7.) Steering Damper: after I start getting the front end up or feel the headshake. How many of you bought steering dampers?

What else do you suggest?
Leave the tip over switch it is there for a reason, to keep the motor safe in a crash and prevent fires.

yes you need springs.

EBC HH, Galfer HH, Vesrah RJL are all good.

Sharkskinz is good stuff, if you are planning on a dedicated track bike it is a good idea.

the advantage of a 120 70 front is mostly that you can get good rubber, and if you are planning on track days just go to race rubber the GP/GPa combo is as cheap as road tires and better on the track.

You'll know when you need a damper.
 

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Definitely respring the bike. I'm 195 w/o leathers. I talked to Lee at Traxxion and he recommended a 0.975 for the front and a 550 lb spring for the rear for my 2000 6R. My box arrived yesterday. :D
 

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i'll be replacing my '03 with an '06 pretty soon and doing a minimalist race build that's going to go something like this:

-bodywork
-tires are a given
-re-valved and re-sprung forks
-ohlins rear (if i have the cash)
-damper, i already have a scott's so just need the mount
-HH pads and lines
-woodcraft rearsets
-quick turn throttle insert
-spares

i'm only putting the damper on because i already have it, ride the bike a few times and then decide if you need one or not.

the ohlins is more of a want than a need, i've been running the stocker on my '03 and it hasn't been a setback but i've never rode a bike with an aftermarket shock so i also don't know what i'm missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses. Thanks to your suggestion, I ordered the Scotts adapter for the bike so i can use the sterreng damper from my dirt bike on the trackdays.
 

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A lot depends on how much you want to spend and how fast you want to go.

If you're new to trackdays, just find a race shop or GMD Computrack shop and have them set up your suspension. You are heavy for the stock springs (front and rear), but if you're in any of the beginner classes or just starting out, maxing out the preload will probably be good enough. I say this mainly because if you're in beginner, you won't be going too fast and a softer suspension is more forgiving than a harder setup. This will save you the $2000.00 it will cost to respring and revalve the front and back ends.

Tires: a 120/70 will make the bike steer more slowly. Again, how fast are you? Michelin Pilot Power road tires are great for a begining rider because they last a long, long time (and come in a 120/65). Depending on the track, I could get 5-10 days out of a road tire (compared to 2 or less days with a DOT-racing tire).

As far as everything else, do an honest assesment of your skill/speed and your finances. The stock bike is incredibly capable. In my opinion (except for your weight being so far beyond the stock suspension), you really don't need to do any mods* until you are running mid-pack-intermediate or faster.

*the only mods you MUST make regardless of skill/speed is: 1) replace stock plastic with track plastic. If you don't have track plastics, run naked. 2) get some good frame and swingarm sliders, preferably one that won't bend the right-side engine spacer if you go down hard on that side.

If finances are NOT a limiting factor, just go hog-wild. :D

As far as disabling the tip-over sensor, I don't see a need for it. I've had the bike leaned over until the left side case dragged on the pavement (I crashed soon after [xx(]) and the engine turning off wasn't a problem. What could be a problem is that you crash and the bike ends up on its side and thanks to the magic of EFI, the bike contiues to run with all the oil piled up on one side of the engine. I can see oil starvation in such a situation (remember, it may take quite awhile for you or a cornerworker to get to the bike and shut it off).
 

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If you are new and not actually competing in a race, go bare bones. The things you should be most concerned about are protecting yourself and your bike. Good gear for yourself and track plastic, frame sliders, and good tires for your bike. If you want to protect your bike even more, and I suggest it, I would look into engine case covers. The stock ones are pretty cheap, and lowside on your left side could mean that engine cover will crack and you will get shit up in your engine. Thats not good, plus your day is over, unless you can find someone else with an engine cover. NRC are the least expensive and probably the most popular due to that fact.

After that I would suggest steel braided lines. Probably the best money you could spend as a beginner. Stock pads are very good especially for people who are just starting out. I ran stock pads all last year and would keep running them if I didnt find a deal on some Vesrah's. Just get the suspension tuned as best as you can stock and go out there and have fun. You will find out that these bikes even stock can get into the mid pack advanced group in most organizations. They are just that good now-a-days.

Maybe some rearsets if you dont like the flipping stock pedals. You will find it gets annoying having that peg get stuck to the bottom of your boot when you are moving your foot. Some people say rearsets add more feel to the bike, but I have yet to come to that same conclusion. Maybe my feet are numb or something, but I dont feel it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for your responses guys. It's always important to qualify answers on sites like this.

I have been riding street bikes and dirt bikes for 25+ years and I did 13 trackdays at 5 different NoCal tracks on my '04 Aprila Mille Factory last year. I am currently a B+ rider but I want to kick it up a notch and really appreciate a light bike that doesn't have too much HP and has Japanese parts availability. (The pucker factor is high when you have an $18k bike with 3-4 months parts availability)

I am signed up for 18 days this year with [email protected]

I still love V-twin power but the weight and parts availablity are more important to help me develop track skills.

I am spoiled with Brembo brakes, Ohlins suspension, OZ wheels, Acculign rearsets etc. but I did not want to spend money on things that I don't need yet. I expect to be slower on this bike for a few days at least.

Suspension and brakes are the most important upgrades for any bike so...

The spring rate calculator on Race Techs web site tells me the Fork springs need to be around 95kg and the rear shock is OK. I am going to leave the shock alone and get a re-valve on the fork with new springs.

I will get Galfer brake lines and pads, frame sliders, and do the Euro jumper mod that I read about on this site.

For the body work, I was thinking of Sharkskins or OPP fiberglass race sets, but with the $450 for paint + $250 for painting the tank added I would be up to $1,350 -$1,550. I can order a set of Carbon Fiber bodywork from them for $1,600, so I will probably go with that. They will be stronger, lighter, cooler looking and will look good with the stock Magna tank so - no paint costs.

After a few days, I might consider a Brembo brake MC. I really don't want more power for now.

Any further thoughts are welcome.:)

I'll post a picture when it's done.
 

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Hi.

I think that 95 springs are too small for you. I'm about 160 lbs (72 kg) without leathers and using 95 springs. In front only springs and at rear the whole damber. I think 100's would be closer to right for you... I think you should do re-valving to shock's because the spiringrate is changed so much.

Buy the steering damber. It's better to have it as early as possible. Don't wait until you are second from going to crash your bike. Tankslappers and highsiders usually comes without a warning. And if you are going to do only trackdays with that bike try to do or buy steering limiters. Steeringdamber shouldn't be the part that limits the steering.

And what comes to that front tyre I suggest that you go with 120/70 fronts. It gives you extra grip and you wont lowside the bike so easily as you would with 120/60 fronts.

Install the steel brake lines because those are must and leave the tip over sensor where it is. If you remove it and when you go down your going to do more harm to the engine than "do-it-your-self-mecanic" could do.

BTW. I have Yamaha R6R, built for racing... hope that you wont shoot me because I dont own a Kawasaki? :D
 

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Originally posted by Stock600
Hi.

BTW. I have Yamaha R6R, built for racing... hope that you wont shoot me because I dont own a Kawasaki? :D

I just might shoot you ;)

What's your number going to be? So I know who I'm racing with. A or B class?
 

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Originally posted by RedFinn




I just might shoot you ;)

What's your number going to be? So I know who I'm racing with. A or B class?
And do you really think that I'm going to tell you my number (or class) if you going to shoot me? :D

I know you and that's enough for me. :)
 

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I hope you dont mind me jacking your thread really quick.. but i was wondering if I could get a tip in here. I have an 03zx6rr, and I wanted to know if I should respring it. I'm 120lbs w/o leathers. I'm guessing all of my gear cant be more than 30 lbs. So 150lbs with my shizz on. Its a completely stock bike, what is the current spring rate in front/back, and should I redo something? Or adjust something? My first trackday is coming up april 1st. Thanks!
 

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Originally posted by xdbx
I hope you dont mind me jacking your thread really quick.. but i was wondering if I could get a tip in here. I have an 03zx6rr, and I wanted to know if I should respring it. I'm 120lbs w/o leathers. I'm guessing all of my gear cant be more than 30 lbs. So 150lbs with my shizz on. Its a completely stock bike, what is the current spring rate in front/back, and should I redo something? Or adjust something? My first trackday is coming up april 1st. Thanks!
Oddly enough, they designed the bike for you! The front springs are fine. The rear shock will be way too stiff for you. I suggest using no preload front or back as a starting point.
 

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I didnt recieve a manual when i bought the bike, so how do I adjust the preload, and is the only way to make the rear softer to replace the spring itself?
 

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Get a manual, it is just too much trouble to own one of these without one. And do some research on suspension setup, if you don't understand it, no point in changing it.
 

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NorCal... it "says" the rear shock is good for your weight but it isnt. It will clap out in about 2 laps at a B pace. The shock spring will make a bigger difference than the fork springs IMO. However for an extra $120 just get both! :D
 

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Originally posted by NorCal
Hi all,

I just bought a slavaged '05 636 and want to know what you all have done to get your bikes trackworthy. I am NOT spending money on the engine for a 4 HP gain until the suspension is well dialed in or is fully upgraded.


1.)Disable tip over sensor: I just posted a tread to find out how.

2.) Bodywork: Sharkskins offer less hassle and good quality so I will either buy those or perhaps from OPP where they have carbon fiber that will not need paint.

3.) I weigh 210 lbs with leathers so I am thinking of getting fork springs and a possible re-valve.

4.) Do I need to do anything with the shock right away?

5.) I will buy HH brake pads and stainless steel brake lines after a couple of days to see what difference that makes. Any brand suggestions?

6.) Tire sizes: I like Pirelli Diablo Corsa and Michelin Pilot Power tires - should I get a 120/70 for the front?

7.) Steering Damper: after I start getting the front end up or feel the headshake. How many of you bought steering dampers?

What else do you suggest?
Yes to the Steering Damper, it saved me a few times when i was on the throttle to hard out of a corner.

No to the Carbonfiber body work, just get some cheap glass. The point here is to minimize your expense incase you go down.

Suspension, get it set with the stock set up, if at that time you still feel that it is not working for you then get it revalved and new springs. I left the rear shock stock and put in hyperpro springs in the forks.

I would suggest stainless lines if you can afford them rigth now, mainly just the fronts, you rarely use the rear and I feel the rear lines is more for looks.

Tires, out of the two I chose Diablo Corsa hands down. The diablo corsa will surve your track purpose up to and in some case above advance track day classes.
About the front tire size, 120/70 will be good, dont worry about the geometry change because if you are getting someone to set up the suspension for you then they will compensate for the tire size change.
 

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Originally posted by Stock600



And do you really think that I'm going to tell you my number (or class) if you going to shoot me? :D

I know you and that's enough for me. :)
Hmm, looks like I'll be doing some detective work once season starts.

 
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