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Discussion Starter #1
I am having trouble starting my bike in the cold lately. When it was warm out, I could start my bike without the choke or gas, but now that it has gotten a little chilly in the morning, I need to use the choke to start my bike. The problem is, I can't start my bike with the choke. I noticed this when i tried to pull the choke out when the bike was already running, and it would kill the engine. Also, when I just start my bike, giving it a little bit of gas will also cut the engine.

I am thinking about taking it in to get a tune up, but this is my first bike, and i don't want to get ripped off when i take it in. Does anyone have any advice when taking your bike in to get looked at. I am thinking that the problem lies in the carbs, but what exactly should i say when i take the bike in to get looked at?
Is this something i can fix at home? Maybe i have to get the carbs syncronizeded?

I kinda mentioned this problem in another post. But didn't get any feedback. Thanks for any tips you may have to offer!
 

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When you want to start it in the morning pull choke all the way out, press the start button, it should start without you having to mess with throttle. If it revs up to high push choke lever back until it comes down to around 2000-2500 (that’s what I do) and just push it back as bike warms up.
Check maintenance chart as far as carbs go.
 

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Why don't you take the tank off and put in a new set of plugs and while you are at it clean the air filter element and put in a new fuel filter. I assume it is a '98 ZX-6R. How many miles? The dealer will charge you a bunch just to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nexus >> That is exactly my problem. To start my bike in the morning, I have to pull the choke all the way out. But for some reason, it won't start with the choke pulled out. Not even a little bit. That's why I didn't have this problem when it was warm out (because i didn't use the choke to start my bike). But now that it has gotten a bit more cold, I have to rely on my choke to get the bike started.

swjohnsey >> yeah, I was considering doin some of that basic maintenance myself. Haven't done it before, but it shouldn't be too difficult right?

Would anyone recommend any good websites that provide the proper steps to change the spark plugs, clean the air filter, and change the fuel filter? I have glanced through my owner's manual once. But i don't know if it provides enough detail for me to do this.

btw, it has about (16000 kilometer = 9,941.9390758 mile) on it.
 

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Give it just a little throttle with full choke, it will start right up. If not, change the plugs. Cheap and easy to do.
 

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Ya came to the right spot. Take the tank off. Take the screws off the top of the air box and remove the lid. Take the foam air filter out and remove the white plastic frame by squeezing the little tit thingies (very erotic). Wash the foam element in gasoline (it helps not to smoke here). Now dump out the dirty gas and put in some clean gas in the container you used to wash the filter element. Put about half a cup of 30wt motor oil in the gas and soak the element in it then set it asside to dry.

There are two more screws that hold the bottom of the airbox to the carbs. They are the ones under the rubber plugs on the lid. Remove these and remove the airbox. You can now see the four plug wells with the spark plug wires running to them. The boot is really long and tends to be a bitch to get off. Twist it a little to break the seal and wiggle it side to side whilst pulling and it should come out. To get the plug out you need the spark plug tool that came in your tool kit. Take the plug out with the tool. I have a shop vac that I rigged up a 1/2" tube to that I stick down the well to clean it out good. Gap the new plugs to .7-.8mm (.028-.032"), put a little antiseeze on the threads and torque them to 9.5 ft/lbs. You can borrow a torque wrench at Autozone if you have to but torque them.

You can get the plugs and fuel filter from ronayers.com for about half what the dealer will charge you.

You also probably need to get the valve adjustment and carb sync checked. Those are probably better left to a dealer. Adjusting the valves is complicated and pricey but necessary. It could cost you $200-$400.
 
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