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Hi All,

Just wanted to share a small how to in case anyone has this issue. Apologies if I'm using the wrong terminology anywhere, I'm learning the basics of motorcycle maintenance.

Bike: 06 ER6F.
Difficulty: Easy
Tools required: wd40, hex key set to remove fairing, screwdriver set (flat head and cross)

Issue

Idle was quite low, roughly around 800rpm and it was causing the bike to cut out on occasion at a stand still.
The is very low and it should be around 1250 - 1350. Went to adjust the idle and it would not budge, it was not rotating either way.

Solution

Remove the lower cowling and then the top fairing. Be careful to detach the indicator wire before removing it fully and take care not to scratch the fairing or cowling.

The image below shows the location of the throttle body and where the actual adjustment takes place.

View attachment 141299



The arrow on the left shows the pin which when extending, adjusting the air intake to let more air in on idle. If you twist your throttle (when ignition is off) it will make more sense as you will see the cable rotate the wheel (in the direction of the arrow to the right). Take a picture for reference (just like the one below)


View attachment 141301

So, to solve the issue, apply some wd 40 to the spring (the one the screwdriver is resting on and place a flat head screwdriver in between the spring sections and just rotate slightly to flex the spring. Also apply some wd 40 to the pin area and also squirt some down the rubber hose where the thumb screw is. Keep the cable raised maybe with some string or something and let the wd40 trickle down overnight.

View attachment 141302


Using a small wire brush (roughly toothbrush size) on the springs and the pin so applying over several days and giving it a scrub may be the safest option to avoid any damage (it's what I did).

That should basically be it, with those steps, it should mean the idle cable moves freely. it's not complicated by any means but the thing is so small and delicate I took the slow and steady route to lessen the risk of any damage.

At this point, the cable should be rotating and you will notice the pin moving in and out of the housing. The pin only needs to extend by a millimeter and it can cause the bike to increase it's idle by a few hundred rpm so take it steady with the adjustments.

That's why it's good to use the reference picture you took earlier in case you need to reset the pin position.

If you have this issue, I hope this helps! Thanks for reading.
After freeing up that area , spray with a bit of white grease to prevent the future rust , and provide lube to the area .... WD is NOT the best lube ...,
 

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No. WD40 is NOT a good lubricant. WD40 has some short term lubricating properties and penetrates well (though better penetrating oils are now available). It works to free up seized parts, or as a cleaner/degreaser, but it can be destructive to some plastics or rubber. It is more of a solvent with some oil in it than anything else and was developed as a water displacement chemical (WD). It might work well for fixing a squeaky drawer in your kitchen, but the moving parts of a motorcycle should use a proper lubricant...a lubricant designed for the application in which it's being used. Have a corroded screw that's difficult to turn? Spray a little WD40 on it to get it out, then clean the WD40 off and apply a small amount of anti seize before replacing it. Bearings should be packed with the appropriate grease, depending on the working temperature and the amount of pressure carried by the bearing. Chains can be cleaned with WD40 (I prefer kerosene or diesel fuel because I know they won't harm the o rings), but the WD40 should be wiped off and a proper chain lube applied afterward.

There are many other spray lubricants out there that were actually designed to be lubricants. These should be chosen before WD40 whenever true lubrication is needed.

Back on topic.
 

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Interesting. WD40 says otherwise.

.

Yes, it will lubricate. Lubrication is a process to reduce friction through the use of a lubricant. By definition, spit is a lubricant too...but it's probably not adequate for bearings, chains, or other moving motorcycle parts.

Feel free to use it on whatever you want but anyone who reads this thread should know the facts.

Moving the WD40 crap to a new thread.
 

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ENOUGH! You've all been warned. Any more personal insults toward anyone will result in an immediate ban. If you can't keep civilized, then go squabble on Twitter or Facebook.
 
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