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Hi, I'm doing my first oil change and the recommended dino oil weight for my 2011 ninja 250r is 10w40. I was just wondering if i should also use 10w40 synthetic if I plan on using synthetic oil? I'm asking this because i searched and some people said that they went from 10w40 conventional oil to like.. 5w40? i'm not sure about that though.

In addition I know this has been asked often but should i continue with conventional oil for until like .. 1500 miles or something before switching? Some people say its okay and some people say it's better to break-in with conventional oil. It's hard to decide what the best route to take..

Thanks a lot in advance
 

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Use whatever your manual says, dino or synthetic, doesn't make a difference. 10-40 is fine and so is a 5-40 as long as it's JASO-MA rated. 10-30 is also fine in cooler climates.

I wouldn't use a 20-50 though as it just wouldn't flow fast enough to lunbricate all the moving parts in a high revving engine like that.
 

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The lower the first number the better....even a 5w-40 is very "thick" at 70F.

Flow is your friend....heat is bad. The two are related. Less flow = more heat = more wear. An _W-40 will flow more than a _W-50.

If you've got a few miles on it already and want to run synthetic...go for it. The rings seat pretty quickly...and thats all there is to worry about "breaking in" in today's engines.
 

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To save some money, you could use the Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic, or the Rotella 15w-40 for even more savings but less smooth shifting.

I use the 10w-40 Amsoil synthetic and I also like the 10w-40 Maxima synthetic.

To save money I make my own semisynthetic, two quarts Amsoil 10w-40 and the rest Rotella 15w-40 from my ZZR600, and one quart of Amsoil and the rest Rotella for my cruiser, but there is some risk for doing this; although I am very happy with the shift feel, it seems better to me compared to all Amsoil 10w-40 for my cruiser.

20w-50 oil is for just summer use or an older engine more likely to burn and leak thinner oil. The air cooled engine owners will sometimes use 60 weight oil, especially for places like the Death Valley desert in the summer.
 

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I, like Mike Mays, use Amsoil 10w-40 along with their recommended Eo filter. With the extended run time of the Amsoil, it can save you money in the long run. You can also sign up to be a preferred customer and get it at a discount over full retail to make it more affordable for all your vehicles. They also have recommended weights and measures on their site for your vehicles as well.
 

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I 've always had clutch slipping issues and valve noise trouble when using fully synthetic oils and no real improvement in performance.


I usually use Bel Ray Semi Synthetic 10w - 40 in the winter and 15w 50 during the summer months as the weather gets quite hot here.


Having said that, I am planning to try Eneos semi synthetic for my next change in about a month.
 

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Last year when I had my first service on my 2015 900 Vulcan Classic the dealer said never use synthetic it will make the clutch slip ever heard of that.
 

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Synthetic motorcycle oil is usually made for motorcycle clutch plates in the oil, as stated on the oil bottle label. The JASO-MA or JASO-MA2 oil rating is about testing the oil for oiled "wet" clutch use (The J is for Japan).

An older rider like me got used to the clutch feel with regular oil years ago, and I do not like all synthetic oil because it seems like the clutch slips too much, but if you start with all synthetic oil it will feel normal to you. I use half regular oil so the clutch feels "normal" to me.

I use half synthetic motorcycle oil because it gives smoother shifting, and if I ever overheat the engine from a cooling system problem it will help protect the engine from heat damage.

I like this retired oil expert's articles:
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Motorcycle Motor Oil
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