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Discussion Starter #1
I think I burnt my clutch with a few hard drag type launches and learning to clutch it up in 2nd. The clutch feel fine under normal driving but when I try to clutch it up in 2nd the front tire barely comes off the ground, even when I drop it from near redline. The stock clutch must not take much of that kind of action. Because I was not hard on it.
Who makes the best clutch kit out there and where is the best place to buy them?
 

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The muzzy clutch is the best for you. It not only makes it easy to clutch up second and third gear standups, it adds a good 5-7 hp.
 

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how does a clutch add hp
 

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Originally posted by Ernie
The muzzy clutch is the best for you. It not only makes it easy to clutch up second and third gear standups, it adds a good 5-7 hp.
[:+1] [:p]
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Common we all know the Muzzy good for 30 HP on the dyno but they are on back order untill the second Friday of next week.:D Ok now for real who makes the best clutch kits? I appreciate a honest answer.
 

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Originally posted by Greenisfaster
how does a clutch add hp
The muzzy is the shiznit. You have to get them specially made. Ti baskets, ceramic bearings, CF clutch steels, specially made in Japan by Imagotcha for muzzy. (not sure on spelling)
 

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Originally posted by Ernie



The muzzy is the shiznit. You have to get them specially made. Ti baskets, ceramic bearings, CF clutch steels, specially made in Japan by Imagotcha for muzzy. (not sure on spelling)
I run Barnett in preference to EBC, the stock clutch is also fine. If you have a slipper be sure to measure the clutch pack and order the steels needed to get the right thickness.
 

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how much does an aftermarket clutch kit cost for our bikes? does the fact that its a slipper clutch bump up the price to the hundred millions of dollars?
 

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No slipped has nothing to do with the actual clutch.

I personally would recommend staying with the stock fibers and steels. I would say you either had a misadjusted clutch, maybe worn out oil or oil that was not able to lubricate properly, and just plain outright abuse. dont take that personal please.

I had a 03 636 with 25,000 miles on it before I replaced the clutches, to many standups and clucth up 2nd gear wheelies to count, and at least 10 1/4 mile track outings with at least 10 runs per outing and never had one problem with mine.

My Zx10R has almost 14,000 miles on it and the same thing, more clutch wheelies than I care to count and several drag race track days already and it is fine as well.
 

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Does the Barnett add a lot of extra clutch resistance?

I am in the market for a new clutch as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Originally posted by sneakyws6
No slipped has nothing to do with the actual clutch.

I personally would recommend staying with the stock fibers and steels. I would say you either had a misadjusted clutch, maybe worn out oil or oil that was not able to lubricate properly, and just plain outright abuse. dont take that personal please.

I had a 03 636 with 25,000 miles on it before I replaced the clutches, to many standups and clucth up 2nd gear wheelies to count, and at least 10 1/4 mile track outings with at least 10 runs per outing and never had one problem with mine.

My Zx10R has almost 14,000 miles on it and the same thing, more clutch wheelies than I care to count and several drag race track days already and it is fine as well.
No offence taken. Shouldnt be oil as its only got 500mi on it (Amsoil Syn. 10-40) I wouldnt say I abused it because I would clutch it up then ride normally for a while to let it cool down. I was not constantly thrashing on it. As far as burnouts go I havent done any. Im going to screw around with adjustments and see what happens. I find it hard to believe its out so easliy.

Thanks for your help everyone. Long live the Muzzy clutch.[:p]
 

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Easiest way to upgrade your clutch is just to buy kit springs and ensure you only use semi-synthetic oil.
We race a ZX6R engine in a sidecar chassis, and if it will take us slipping the clutch off the line with a heavy steel chassis and two people with a kit gearbox time after time, it will take the hammer from your starts.

Still trouble? Doubt it, but if so, read on.

Remove all stock steel plates after measuring total thickness and ensuring it is within parameters. Replace all with Kit 2.0mm steel plates. Measure total thickness. Note difference. Place a washer of that thickness between the clutch pull rod and the pull rod bearing. This will reset the distance of the pull rod to the correct dimension, so that the actuation lever engages correctly, otherwise the actuation lever will be buggered in no time. The extra steel with have a damping effect on the heat build up and prevent burn out of the plates.
P.S. I have no idea what this will do to a slipper clutch, as we don't use one. But if i can get hold of a couple of '07 engines, i'll be finding out real soon.
 
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