[barnes]

I would like to install some lazerbolts (8mm bolt with LED light in the end) in the top corner of the headlight covers??I wired up my flushmount indicators which was easy,but how would be the easiest way to wire up these new lights i have a '03 ZX6R which already has the wire for the Eroupean model which comes with lights alraedy insatlled from the factory could i just run a split from that wire and use the bikes frame as a ground??
Much appreciated in advance....

 

[Flash Ahhh]

Barnes,

Well, I hope I am understanding you correctly, but why not run each one into the headlights positive and negative wire? Won't that work? You want these to come on with the headlights right?

I'd splice the harness as well to make swapping the LED's out (in case they ever failed) easier.

-Flash

 

[barnes]

Thanks i'll give that a try but i think there is only one wire for the low beam (positive wire)headlights and the other is a ground wire which conects somewhere else
I'll have to have a play around and see what works best

 

[GreenEnvy]

please tell me your not suggesting he plug a little LED into the headlight power supply...
That will blow the LED to start, might damage the electrical system as well.

The headlights run WAY to much current for that, they run at what 50-60 Watts? your LED's use not even 1/10th of that.
Find another 12V signal that is always on, like the power running to the gauges, or the tail lights.

 

[BSHAP]

ACTUALLY, that's not true, there's nothing wrong with using the headlight circuit... Just because the headlights DRAW 50 - 60 watts doesn't mean that the LED will ever see that high wattage if it's placed in parallel. If there's 12 volts across a 12 volt rated LED when in parallel and it's designed to draw say 1 watt it will only ever see 1 watt.

 

[TommyV]

Oh shit, not another headlight discussion[]

 

[GreenEnvy]

bah, its been a few years since my last electrical class.
I seemed to remember voltage is always the same for each path in a parallel circuit. Therefore the current will be different in each, with more current following the path of least resistance? If so the low relatively low resistance of the LED would suck a hell of a lot more current through it.

Or am I way off base? [8D]
I'm pretty good with electronics, but im really more of a computer guy, hehe.

 

[Flash Ahhh]

[] Did I goof? I didn't think I did. Maybe I did.

-Flash

 

[BSHAP]

Okay, well apparently I've been "bah"ed...

CDN, you are completey correct in your theories of a parallel circuit right up until you start speaking of the "realatively low resistance of the LED"... in THIS case anyway.

Barnes was asking about installing a set of "Lazerbolts", not a bare-bones LED from Radio Shack...

The Lazerbolts will have a built-in current limiting resistor, as most LEDs operate around 20 milliamps. So, if it's DESIGNED to work at 12 volts at the standard 20 milliamps it would have an added resistance value of approximately 430 ohms... Otherwise, yes it would vapourize. LEDs 101: (http://members.misty.com/don/ledd.html)

Now the headlamps... 60 watts, 12 volts = 5 amps. Therefore 12 volts & 5 amps = 2.4 ohms.

So what was that you were saying about path of least resistance... 430 ohm accessory LEDs or 2.4 ohm headlamps?

In other words, there should be NO problem tapping into the headlight circuit... (Especially considering IF the wire Barnes spoke of from the harness IS in fact the factory lead for the corner lights on the European models.)

[8D]

 

[GreenEnvy]

I knew I wasn't totally crazy [8D]
forgot a commercial setup would have some resistors in it to limit the current.. doh!

Missed yea today brad.. I went to NRC to chat with the guys, then Tom, Little Lepp, and Derek showed up randomly, we were just missing you yellow folks..

 

[BSHAP]

No Lee, not completely crazy... [8D]

Aahhh, I missed yet another team green meeting at NRC?? ...I'll have to spend more time out there to support the (not so mellow) yellows!!

Hmmm, what to buy, what to buy... ??

 

[kronk]

if you have an '03 and already got rid of the mudguard in the back, just run the license plate light wire to the front. it's a constant 12 volts that you're not using anymore. unless you're running neon lights inside your fairings with that 12 volts, this should prove to be your best solution.