Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone else have problems with worping stock front rotors?? When i bought the bike off my friend it had worped rotors. I built both calipers thinking after 18K the brakes may not be retracking and worpping the rotors.Two yrs later ive burned up anoughter rotor,but they only have 2K miles on them and thats about 6months.I had the same problem with my zx-7 with in 13 yrs i must of went throught 3 set of stock and 3 sets of EBC's. I replace the brakes everytime i replace the rotors. At 200 a wack im getting pissed:( I dont know,no one else i know have this problem. Thanks for lissioning to my bitch[:M7]

Barry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,966 Posts
How do you warp rotors? The only way I ever heard of it happening was on dirt bikes, and it resulted from going through deep water when the rotor hadn't cooled off from braking, and therefore became warped. I don't see how it could be warped solely from braking, because I had a LTD 550, and the front brakes were locked up on it. The previous owner I guess didn't realize that they were, and rode around anyway, causing grooves to form in the rotor. But it was still straight as an arrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I know the rotor is worped because it bumps when i put on the front brakes and it has hot spots.ninjarider,the old bikes didnt have floting rotors so they were stronger.I dont ride in the rain or through puddles so i couldnt tell you how it worped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
I have also had shuddering brakes on the 1997 bike and the new bike. The runout does not exceed the service limit, so the rotors are not warped. The problem persists regardless of pad choice but is made better with a Performance Friction pad and much worse with the EBC HH sintered pad.

The problem is caused by buildup on the rotor and is made worse by sticking pistons. You can make it better by doing the following:

  • Do not get the rotors wet.
  • Remove the pad springs.
  • Do not lay the wheel down on a rotor.
  • Push out the pistons, and then clean them. When installing pads, do not push in dirty pistons. If the calipers have not been rebuilt, they are overdue.
  • If you use a chock, be sure that it does not touch the rotors (the Pit Bull chock is a good choice).
  • Do not tie the lever to the bar with the wheel on the ground.
  • Follow the bed-in instructions that come with new pads.

The problem is entirely solved by beadblasting the rotors, which takes little coin. As buildup collects on them, the problem will come back in time. On the road, I pay it no mind. For the track, I have the rotors beadblasted before it becomes bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I dont do any stupid stuff like you said.I'm really good to my bikes.I've build the calipers some time ago ,no stoppies!!!! ALWAYS remove the braks pad springs.The r/o might be in specs but (i dont feel safe) with the front bumping. Does anyone know where i can get a good price on some????
thanks Barry
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top