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Discussion Starter #1
i know, search right? well i have, across multiple forums (using Google Advanced Search...the on-forum searches blow!) and cant find any info on this. i did the "hard" part first (found the brown/red stripe ecu wire...which actually wasnt that hard!) anyway...

ive got the tank up, and im trying to get the stupid coupler apart. healtech's instructions say "release tang and pull coupler apart...you may need a flat blade screwdriver to do it". well ive tried and tried and cant get the damn thing to budge. anyone got any tips? just keep going at it till i get it apart? ive been out there for nearly an hour trying to get this thing apart, and as soon as i do im sure it will be smooth sailing, but man if this isnt FRUSTRATING!

thanks for any help guys...throw me a bone!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
job is done...just took a LOT of wiggling and pulling to get that coupler apart. as for a pic...the bikes back together so forget that! LOL but the part i was talking about was the 6 pole coupler under the tank. only had 5 wires going to it though. worst part of the install IMO...that and using the stupid splices on the ecu wires. what a bitch.

started the bike up to make sure it would run and it did no problem. checked the TRE setting and its set to 6th...i thought id have to set it up but its already set up. thats a plus!

anyway...for anyone else doing this be prepared...if you dont have tiny hands youre in for a lot of frustration. just be patient and careful and youll get through it though. took me about 3-4 hours but eh...i was being careful and wanted to make triple sure i got the right wire going to the ECU.
 

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just finished hooking up the TRE -you weren't kidding, that 6 pole connector is a bitch to get at!

I'll post a full write-up w/ pics tomorrow morning.
 

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The Indifference Engine
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For what it's worth if that was for the fuel line it works way better if you push the coupler ON while you're trying to release the tangs. So instead of pulling it off and trying to release the tangs which puts pressure on the tangs and makes them impossible to push in if you press the connector together it comes apart really easy.

If you think the Kawi one's are bad you should try the Yamaha one's. I threw a wrench across the room.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
good advice sev...if i ever have to do a TRE install again ill remember that.

took the bike out today and took her up to near 15k in 1, 2, and 3 and the TRE definitely does wake the bike up. low speed response and on/off throttle is much smoother now, and more oomph at lower rpms as well. very worthwhile mod, definitely worth every penny.
 

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TRE install

Here's a breakdown of the install with a few pics from my old-school phone:

1. start by taking off the seat in order to lift up the tank.
Unbolt the two bolts holding down the tank (circled red) and support the tank with something (orange). I used a breaker bar, but any type of stick/wedge will do.

2. locate the 6 prong male/female couplers on the RIGHT side of the bike - it's the one w/ 5 wires going into each end. Be warned; you'll get some gray hairs trying to pry the two couples apart. Instructions recommend a 'small flathead screwdriver.' I tried that for 20 minutes, gave up, and instead used some needle-nose pliers to pull the tabs. With a bit of luck, you should end up with the two couplers apart.

3. Now you have to disconnect 2 wires from the male coupler (the smaller of the 2 couplers). Use a pin or needle to poke the plastic tab holding in the specified wires. With the tabs disengaged, GENTLY pull out the wires from the back.

4. Repeat the same process on the female coupler.

5. Now hook up the wires you just freed to the HealTech provided couplers. MAKE SURE you install the wires in the correct orientation per the diagram in the instruction manual.

6. Connect the two HealTech couplers you just ran wires into to the box.

7. Locate your starter relay. It's right under the seat. Wiggle the rubber mount off the stands to free it.

8. you're halfway there; have a congratulatory cigarette/beer

9. With the starter out the of way, you can now access the ecu harness. Per instructions, de-wrap the tape around the wires and isolate the brown/red wire

10. (I'm going out of order vs the manual but it's best to do this now). Connect remaining 4 box coupler to the box and route the two black wires all the way to your exposed brown/red wire. MEASURE carefully and cut the brown/red wire in half. Connect each half to the routed wires using the splice caps per instruction.

*FYI - the Healtech provided splice caps are shyt. If not depressed correctly, they will not provide enough force to cut through the wire sheathings. If at the end of the install you end up with an FI light, this is the most likely cause. IMO, you're better off ghetto-splicing the wires; use an exacto to CAREFULLY remove the brown/red wire sheathing, twist the exposed leads together, and wrap in electrical tape.

11. Reinstall the starter relay on the stands. This is what it should look like (see pic). Feel free to use cable ties where appropriate.

12. Sorry, don't have a pic for the last step....Back under the fuel tank, use the provided RED splice box to bridge the red power cable coming off the 4box coupler to the brown wire partnered w/ the blue wire going into another random coupler.

THE END! Hope this helps!
 

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Here's a breakdown of the install with a few pics from my old-school phone:

1. start by taking off the seat in order to lift up the tank.
Unbolt the two bolts holding down the tank (circled red) and support the tank with something (orange). I used a breaker bar, but any type of stick/wedge will do.

2. locate the 6 prong male/female couplers on the RIGHT side of the bike - it's the one w/ 5 wires going into each end. Be warned; you'll get some gray hairs trying to pry the two couples apart. Instructions recommend a 'small flathead screwdriver.' I tried that for 20 minutes, gave up, and instead used some needle-nose pliers to pull the tabs. With a bit of luck, you should end up with the two couplers apart.

3. Now you have to disconnect 2 wires from the male coupler (the smaller of the 2 couplers). Use a pin or needle to poke the plastic tab holding in the specified wires. With the tabs disengaged, GENTLY pull out the wires from the back.

4. Repeat the same process on the female coupler.

5. Now hook up the wires you just freed to the HealTech provided couplers. MAKE SURE you install the wires in the correct orientation per the diagram in the instruction manual.

6. Connect the two HealTech couplers you just ran wires into to the box.

7. Locate your starter relay. It's right under the seat. Wiggle the rubber mount off the stands to free it.

8. you're halfway there; have a congratulatory cigarette/beer

9. With the starter out the of way, you can now access the ecu harness. Per instructions, de-wrap the tape around the wires and isolate the brown/red wire

10. (I'm going out of order vs the manual but it's best to do this now). Connect remaining 4 box coupler to the box and route the two black wires all the way to your exposed brown/red wire. MEASURE carefully and cut the brown/red wire in half. Connect each half to the routed wires using the splice caps per instruction.

*FYI - the Healtech provided splice caps are shyt. If not depressed correctly, they will not provide enough force to cut through the wire sheathings. If at the end of the install you end up with an FI light, this is the most likely cause. IMO, you're better off ghetto-splicing the wires; use an exacto to CAREFULLY remove the brown/red wire sheathing, twist the exposed leads together, and wrap in electrical tape.

11. Reinstall the starter relay on the stands. This is what it should look like (see pic). Feel free to use cable ties where appropriate.

12. Sorry, don't have a pic for the last step....Back under the fuel tank, use the provided RED splice box to bridge the red power cable coming off the 4box coupler to the brown wire partnered w/ the blue wire going into another random coupler.

THE END! Hope this helps!
more pics
you should post this in a diy so i can throw it up on my compilation thread!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
good instructions there man! and good on the pics as well! as for the splices for the ecu wires, some people strip them before using the splicers. that eliminates the possible problems. you can also do as you did, but if you do that why dont you just solder them together? much better connection and no way theyll possibly come apart, even if it only is a small chance. i would go ahead and hit them with some solder unless you want to be able to get them apart later on.

and actually i thought about doing that to my bike...if any problems arise from those splices then ill be taking them off and soldering those suckers.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i do...play guitar and do all my own electrical work on them so i always have an iron and solder handy!
 
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