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Well, im still having issues with my carbs. The bike has a hard time accelerating from idle to 6-7k. Once it clears its throat it takes off like its supposed to.

I read somewhere that if all you have is a slip on you dont have to re-jet, you just need to shim your needle valves.

And i also read ( here http://www.webzxr.co.uk/ ) that if the bike is running lean you can do the float bowl vent mod.

which would be best? or should i do both?

Would doing the vent mod require a re-jet sinse there is more air coming thru ( which seems like the problem to begin with to me )?

ah hell, can someone just figure out a EFI system for these bikes already...:Damn:
 

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i'm working on the efi ;) then again, i'm sixing for 250HP and almost 300CFM!! lol.. gixxer 750 throttle bodies and a 9-R ECU and running gear should work tho.. some day i'll figure it out.


i think i'd honestly try adjusting the mixture screws first, but thats just me.

anyway, either mod is UBER easy and takes about the same effort.. i want to say the float bowl mod has a few names to it as well.. i'm tryin to remember the other names..lol

on that webzxr forum, they're saying the jets are 180/190.. thats not the case on your bike.. its 170/180.. keep that in mind when rejetting if you decide to.


the vent mod calls reducing jet size, but you may not want to.. and make ABSOLUTELY sure that if you do this, you plug the airbox hole up left over from the other ref line from the kleen air valve.

you will get piss poor power if it's left opened.

as far as a shim job, typical shims are .020" and ppl usually use electronics washers from radioshack.. i think a number 4 washer?
gotta make sure the washer seats inside the vac piston and the needle is FULLY seated, otherwise its worthless. if the O.D. of the washer is too close to the I.D. of the hole it sits in, obviously you're gonna offset the needle more than wanted.
 

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FactoryPro link for tuning CV carbs:

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

and what Marc says about the 96-03 ZX7R:

This is the only brand of carb kit made that can run smoothly below 3000 rpm on the zx7r. The dynojet kit doesn't - (and it can't ever).
This is the one carb kit made that contains different needle jets (also called emulsion tubes) instead of different needles. The problem with about 80% of the 750's is that they are normally on the lean side at low rpm and the emulsion tube needs to be changed and then the stock needles work well, even with no shimming (WITH the different Factory Pro needle jets / emulsion tubes.
This kit is also available from Muzzy's.
Note that we said "80%" of the zx7r's.....
About 20% of the zx7r's are "different".
Those are usually the "7's" that were too rich, even when all stock.
On THOSE bikes....... we suggest to install the carb kit and follow the kit float height settings. If that's too rich and stumbly at low rpm and you DID(!) properly set the float height, then, lean out the float 1mm to try to lean the lowend.
If that's still too rich, call us or email us. With proof of purchase, we will send out a set of "leaner than stock" needles.
That's the solution for the often perplexing zx7r. It's not perplexing if you know that there's "2 different bikes).
 
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