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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

I have a question about the front forks. I am going to change the seals, since the fork has a fairly significant leak.

I'm consulting the service manual, and it says that you have to loosen the plug, and pull until you see the spacer, then remove the pressure from the spring. Isn't it better to remove the pressure from the spring first, and then loosen the plug?

Here the image:

Screenshot_20210405-161711.png

That's one of them, the next two. the manual does not specify the distance between the nut rod, and the top of the rod, example of my r6.

Screenshot_20210405-162611.png

11mm, although this could be easily solved, before separating the plug, I would measure the amount of the thread to the plug. But kawasaki does not specify distances ...

Screenshot_20210405-163105.png

Here, I simply have to turn the rebound screw, until I have 1.5mm.

And the last question, the rebound screw, and the spring preload screw, when loosening and tightening them, do they have a maximum adjustment stop? I mean the laps, which are specified manually, on my r6 they click, on the z1000 I think not.

Sorry if some questions seem obvious, but I've seen this great forum, and wanted to ask you first.

Thanks

P.D: I hope I can provide help at another time. I am a new member.
 

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Follow the Manual they know what there talking about ;)
You need to tighten the Preload adjuster to make space to get the Tool in properly, Then you can remove the pressure.

Nut needs to be screwed all the way down the rod until it stops, It does state this in the Manual see below.



Yes 1.5mm...

Preload and Rebound damping adjusters will stop when the reach their limits, You will feel the resistance at fully open & fully closed positions..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi @KevA

If I like to follow the service manual to the letter.

I do not have the spring compressor that is specified in the service manual, I have one like this:

Sealey Motorcycle Fork Spring Compressor | Motorcycle Tools

That is why I do not understand first loosening the head and then removing the compression from the spring.

In my case, having that spring compressor that is placed in the holes of the spacer, I don't need to follow those instructions, right?

If I remove the compression from the spring first, and then open the head, will I have no problem? Then when assembling I reverse the order, when I have the forks installed on the bike, I give the correct pressure to the spring nut.

🤦‍♂️

I did not realize.

Yes 1.5mm...

Preload and Rebound damping adjusters will stop when the reach their limits, You will feel the resistance at fully open & fully closed positions..
Thanks for the explanation.
 

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With that compressor you should have no problems as it is a different design from the Kawasaki one.
 
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