Bahamas zx6r mystical overheating problem. - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2014, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Bahamas zx6r mystical overheating problem.

Hello all. I have the strangest overheating problem and living here in the bahamas is no help as there are no decent mechanics that are familiar with motorcycles here, so I have decided to tackle the issue my self after hrs and hrs of reasearch.

Bike was purchased from a friend with an overheating problem. At first I assumed it would be an easy fix as I knew it had a leaking radiator. While replacing the radiator it became apparent that the previour owner had been filling the bike with hard tap water ( very hard here in the bahamas) and all the hoses were full of gunk and calcium deposits. It was all cleaned out and flushed.

So radiator was changed still overheating 230+ while riding at decent speed

water pump replaced with decent used one and brand new impeller...still over heating

Themostat tested and removed.... still over heating

Oil cooler replaced as it had failed.. still over heating.

As a last resort I changed the head gasket and there is still no change. Checked the head and block for warp as per manual and it checked out fine. Heres a pic of the heads after a bit of cleaning.

Bike has lots of power


The strangest thing that I have been noticing is that while at idle the temp will hit 209 fan will come on and temp will drop to 204 200 while on kickstand but if I hold the bike up right while sitting on it the temp will rise pretty quick to 220 225 and if I lean it back on the kick stand again the temp will drop back around 206 200. Also the temp readings are very sparatic , while at idle the temp will hop back and forth 198 212 205 200 211. While riding its more like 218 225 214 230 228 238 224 240

Very strange any input will be appreciated

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give detail.

Please help me out this beautiful bike sitting in my garage is killing me because I cant ride.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2014, 12:15 PM
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trapped air ... ? there's an air bleed fitting on the thermostat housing....could it be plugged from hard water deposits?

what did you use for flushing...I'm just curious. Hard water can leave some nasty stuff behind. I've used that CLR in household cleaning, and it works well. Don't know if it would attack anything in teh coolant system...plastic/rubber/copper/brazing ... I sppose all this exists in the plumbing and bath world too ..

Have you checked the temperature sender for accuracy ? Though the fan is coming on at the right temp, so I doubt that it's off.

Temps of 240 in casual street riding does seam high. On the track when riding in anger, seeing 225-230 is not unheard of.

The radiator cap is ~15 psi...so even straight water you won't boil till ~250*...coolant will add another 10-15*. So, 220-225 wouldn't make me panic...but you are getting past that. There should be an abundance of excess cooling capacity in street use to handle the warmer temps
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2014, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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I used a napa brand flush product l, I cant remember exactly what its called. Im currently trying this distilled water and white vinigar flush that I have read About in a few threads, I really hope this does the trick. But the water does boil over into the reserve so im pretty sure its not a computer/sensor issue. I guess the clr will be my next move, i guess im completely stumped.

Any ideas on the reason the bike runs So much cooler while on the kickstand vs the bike stand completely up right in riding position.

Thanks
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2014, 03:47 PM
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ok yeah...you didn't mention boiling over (or I missed it)...and this is happening at temps of 230ish .. ?

If the cap is bad, that can happen. You get ~3*F of boiling point elevation for every PSI...so a 15 psi cap is good for ~45*F.

The fan seams to be turning on in agreement with the temp reading...so I believe the temp sender is very close.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-07-2014, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bahama636 View Post
I used a napa brand flush product l, I cant remember exactly what its called. Im currently trying this distilled water and white vinigar flush that I have read About in a few threads, I really hope this does the trick. But the water does boil over into the reserve so im pretty sure its not a computer/sensor issue. I guess the clr will be my next move, i guess im completely stumped.

Any ideas on the reason the bike runs So much cooler while on the kickstand vs the bike stand completely up right in riding position.

Thanks
Remove the t-stat before the flush.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwillits View Post
a beer-drinking, pot smoking, naked bike trashing hillbilly like you has an iPOD Touch ??--cobra
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Soetoro View Post
"Blah blah my bike is faster than yours around a technical track". Yawn. Well I on my feet can beat your small bike in a race of 100 laps around my couch
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 12:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbreit View Post
ok yeah...you didn't mention boiling over (or I missed it)...and this is happening at temps of 230ish .. ?

If the cap is bad, that can happen. You get ~3*F of boiling point elevation for every PSI...so a 15 psi cap is good for ~45*F.

The fan seams to be turning on in agreement with the temp reading...so I believe the temp sender is very close.

The coolant did boil out of the reserve on two occasions when the temp got up to the point where it started to blink around 237.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
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update.

I used the 50/50 mix of distilled water and white vinegar, allowed the bike to reach running temp 209 when the fan clicked on, turned off the bike and let it sit over night . In the morning i drained the mix out o the cooling system by releasing the bottom hose from the water pump. bit of calcium residue could be seen the in the catch container. i the used a garden hose and ran water up through the hose. as the dirty water came out of the water pump i could feel and see good size pieces of calcium and rust.
After a solid flushing thermostat was re installed and new quality coolant was used. bike was able to be ridden with out going over 210 degrees ( A MAJOR IMPROVEMENT ) but today on only my second day of use, i went for a ride with a buddy of mine in an running the bike pretty hard it began to over heat again. Im assuming that there is still alot of deposits in the water jacket that as not allowing for proper heat transfer . So i will try to flush the system again and see if the makes a difference.

if this doesn't work i guess its off with the head again and take it along withe the cylinders to the ultra sonic cleaner.

cheers
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 12:33 PM
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You have access to an ultrasonic big enough for a head..?..damn. I'd love to have one big enough I could fit a whole carb in without having to flip it around (mine is just a 1 pint). I watched a video with Jay Leno showing one he had...he put an in-line 6 Rolls engine block in it.

I don't think CLR would hurt the engine. Seals in the water pump, hoses...those I wonder about:


.

I did find a thread on using it in a truck forum...couple guys have done so:
Advice on Using CLR To Clean Cooling System - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-10-2014, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbreit View Post
You have access to an ultrasonic big enough for a head..?..damn. I'd love to have one big enough I could fit a whole carb in without having to flip it around (mine is just a 1 pint). I watched a video with Jay Leno showing one he had...he put an in-line 6 Rolls engine block in it.

I don't think CLR would hurt the engine. Seals in the water pump, hoses...those I wonder about: Amazon.com - Calcium, Rust and Lime Remover - Bathroom Cleaners.

I did find a thread on using it in a truck forum...couple guys have done so:
Advice on Using CLR To Clean Cooling System - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Yea there is a ultrasonic cleaner at an outboard mechanic shop I used to work at. Should be able to fit the head and cylinders.
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