how do you remove the wheels? - Page 2 - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-09-2009, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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so do you want a tight chain or a little slack in it or what? cause i noticed on mine the chain seems like it is rubbing on a piece of plastic guiding thing attached to the swingarm... ideaS?
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2009, 12:38 AM
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Check the manual, or the tag under your passenger seat... I don't remember what the slack is, but I know it's alot higher than you'd think, just looked it up, it's 30-35mm(1.18-1.38 inches)

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2009, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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hmm. tells me nothing..
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2009, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexx66 View Post
so do you want a tight chain or a little slack in it or what? cause i noticed on mine the chain seems like it is rubbing on a piece of plastic guiding thing attached to the swingarm... ideaS?
Find the point on the bottom run of the chain that is half way between the front and rear sprockets. Push the chain up towards the swingarm. The amount of deflection should be as listed by jealous57. Adjust as necessary.

That square plastic you refer to is a pillion ejector seat button that Kawi added incase your passenger gave you grief for riding too fast

WAIT - before you jam your fingers in there to test it (and i know you wanted to) it's to stop the chain rubbing on the swingarm (least i hope it is now )
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-10-2009, 08:34 AM
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If you're removing the wheels, invest in a set of stands. In particular, a triple tree stand for the front...makes life a LOT easier to remove the front wheel.

The spark plug tool in the OEM tool kit does work as a 17mm hex to remove the front axle....you'll need to use a 20 mm box end wrench in conjunction with it. But you can also find 17mm hex head sockets at tool shops...I bought a cheapie at Princess Auto (Candian version of Harbour Freight)...works great when you need to torque back to spec.

A good tip is to only loosen the pinch bolts at one end of the front axle to easily break the axle nut free, then loosen the pinch bolts at the other end to get the shaft out.

Make sure to suspend your brake calipers with a bit of wire when you remove your wheels...don't just let them dangle under their own weight. I also removed the rotors when getting my Michelin Powers put on, they warp easily and I didn't want the shop tire chaning monkey f*cking them up...worth the extra 10 minutes.

2008 ZZR600, Ebony - Yosh RS-1 SS, Michelin Pilot Powers, ZG tinted shield, HB SS undertail, Puig CF hugger, LP Turn 6s, CW Assimilator II, koolkowlz seat cowl...gone but not forgotten.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-14-2010, 12:01 PM
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does anyone know what size tool....iv heard its a 22mm...
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-14-2010, 12:07 PM
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Yes 22mm. You can find one on ebay. Search for "front axle tool". $10-20.

Most violated KF rule: 2. - Post titles should be descriptive of the contents of your post. i.e. "Help with fuel injectors" instead of "HELP!!!!"


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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-15-2010, 03:09 PM
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thanks, wanted to make sure before i bought...otherwise wouldve spent more for the one that goes up to 24
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 02:14 PM
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Do all cotter pins fit the rear axle?
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biking Gal View Post
Do all cotter pins fit the rear axle?
Cotter pins come in a wide variety of sizes.

I take the first opportunity to replace them with a reusable hitch pin.



Most racing orgs will require something like this.

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