2006 zzr600 hasn’t me stumped - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
Jr. Member
 
Toyjacob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 35
 
2006 zzr600 hasn’t me stumped

Alright well I’m gonna explain this the best I can because I’m two months of messing with this thing with no luck yet so here we go.

Bike was running when I bought it but sputtered pretty hard with loss of power in the high rpms WOT. I tweaked the carbs and got it smooth and then after a mile or so of riding down the road it started to bog hard and what felt like miss and then complete loss of power with no restart for hours until it was completely cooled off again. I’ve cleaned the carbs completely top to bottom multiple times, new plugs, synced the carbs, second trip out it had way more power but then a mile or so out it bogged out and lost all power again and won’t restart until hours later. I’ve tried every position on the a/f screws from 1.5 turns to 3.5 turns with no difference, once it hits 200 degrees it will bog out and die 10/10 times. Let it cool down completely to under 100 degrees and it will crank and run seemingly fine until it gets hot and dies again. Oil level is normal, fuel pump is new and working as it should, coolant is normal. When it is running I can spray the exhaust with water and all 4 evaporate instantly so I know they are firing but it just doesn’t want to run good or stay running. Believe it or not I can’t even find a shop in my area that is willing to work on it because no one wants to mess with these carbs so I’m stuck doing it myself. It has a cut and modified exhaust high flow slip on (attached image) and a k&n air filter. At a loss to what to do at this point short of buying a jet kit and hoping it works.
Toyjacob is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
Jr. Member
 
Toyjacob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 35
 
Exhaust image
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	FF5A5CC7-AD71-447A-A72C-E1FD297B3C0E_1532536947822.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	261.5 KB
ID:	130919  
Toyjacob is offline  
post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
Jr. Member
 
Toyjacob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 35
 
Another thing, is there a way to tell if the carbs have a jet kit already? The caps to the a/f screws were already drilled out.
Toyjacob is offline  
 
post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 02:21 PM
Lifetime Premium
 
badassjake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,552
           
Send a message via MSN to badassjake
there is an oring under the needle seat(held in with a screw, in the float bowl).....pull out the brass seat and replace all 4 of these orings....what are the colors of your spark plugs??
badassjake is offline  
post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2018, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
Jr. Member
 
Toyjacob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 35
 
Before I changed the plugs #3 was black like it wasn’t firing, after the first sync and clean and replaced the plugs they have all gone to a normal burn color but its still running the same and still dies once it gets hot. And will a normal carb rebuild kit have those gaskets you speak of?
Toyjacob is offline  
post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-26-2018, 04:44 PM
Lifetime Premium
 
badassjake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,552
           
Send a message via MSN to badassjake
i'm not sure, but it should be included in the kit....not the average Oring will fit, but it does exist ...it isn't sold separately for OEM.

typically, stalling out when hot is a rich condition.....or an overheating/coolant issue piston seizing kinda mess.

does it start without the choke when cold?
badassjake is offline  
post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
Jr. Member
 
Toyjacob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 35
 
It did before the first clean and stall, but after the second clean and new plugs and an attempt at syncing them it did require choke, but the choke would make the RPMS jump pretty high after a minute and it would have to be turned almost completely off to get a good choked idle. And then again it died after about 10 minutes of operation. When I first brought it home it cranked and ran as long as it wanted and I rode it multiple times but it would also sputter and have moments of power loss when you crank open WOT but it never died on me. In the process of trying to clean that sputter up I screwed up the A/F posistion and the carb sync, the caps to my A/F screws had already been removed and I have no clue if the bike has a jet kit already so every setting I’ve adjusted to has been “factory” give or take and not for a dyno jet set up, have no clue how to tell if it has been done other than the caps being removed. After the poor attempt at cleaning up the sputter it is as it sits today, it requires choke to crank over cold, when cold it idles fine and sounds good but once it warms up it starts to gain a weed eater like idle that doesn’t sound good at all, it will start running rough and sound like it’s gasping for air and if you breathe on the throttle it will die. Once it does this it has to cool completely off to restart.
Toyjacob is offline  
post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 05:02 AM
Jr. Member
 
rainbirdb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 72
 
Have you checked that the fuel tap / petcock is not faulty? I have seen taps fail and then effectively dump way to much fuel than is necessary (I'm assuming it's a vacuum tap).
rainbirdb is offline  
post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
Jr. Member
 
Toyjacob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 35
 
Not sure if that would affect this bike or not, the fuel pump only pulls gas when it needs it. If the bike is off and I take off the line from the carb that leads to the fuel pump it won’t drip a drop unless I turn the key.
Toyjacob is offline  
post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 01:08 PM
Jr. Member
 
rainbirdb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 72
 
Good point. Have you checked the coils aren't breaking down under heat? Try heating them up with a hot air gun when running to see if they give the same result. It may not be the problem, but at least it eliminates a potential issue/cause. It could also be a blocked fuel cap breather/vent causing the fuel to 'back up'after running for a while. Sometimes it's something very simple causing the issue, but we are convinced it something more complicated.
rainbirdb is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome