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Ended up doing it with ignition under the tank. Runs now at least. Would rather of been able to get rid of it completely though. Thanks for the help guys.
 
fitted this up over the last couple of days into an Aussie model with immobiliser...

options are as follows:
1) relocate ignition under tank and wire in separate switch
2) get hold of US ECU and modify harness to accomodate the different wiring between the US and International models
3) get hold of US ECU and harness...

I couldnt get hold of a US harness so went with option 2...

My aim was to have the Harness and plugs as intact as possible so I could revert back to original setup if needed (ie - if it didnt work :) )

The Int. models don't have a grey wire due to the immobiliser being installed.. so the plan was to compare the 2 ECUs and Harnesses and chase what the int. Harness would do with the US ECU.

The grey wire is connected to the US ECU at the same place that the Int. ECU connects to the Immobiliser Amplifier (Blue/White wire). The Amplifier sits in the nose cone on the air intake, so conveniently positioned..


The resistor needs to go inline with the Blue/ White wire and have power connected to it. I did this with a supply from a red wire nearby that was previously for lights...

I didn't want to hard wire the resistor in place to make sure it was easily reversible, so I wired in a 2 pin plug that would have the power on one pin and the blue wire on the other.



Then I connected the resistor to a mating plug and inserted into the newly installed plug.



The next step was to connect the BRS to the main Harness. Again, not wanting to cut wires, and retain the original plug, I connected the white supply wire to one side of the BRS, and made a return leg from the BRS to the connector with 3 tails. The tails were connected to the Brown, Red and Red/ Blue wires. This would supply power to the main harness and the Accessories, giving both "On" and "Park" positions powered. While not totally necessary, I did this to give me power options around the bike in future as the park position power is on as well and save any stress later...

These were connected to the Harness Connector for the igniton with female spade lugs and heat shrunk in place..

Then reassembled the bike and good to go..





If ever I need to go back to the Int ECU, I can unplug the BRS at the ignition connector and plug in the original ignition, and remove the resistor by unplugging it from the new plug. Install the oem ECU and ready to roll...
 
Incase anyone wants to do this to a 2013 here are the wire colors to cross with the instructions in this post.
Ignition switch.
Blue-accessory power wire optional
Brown
Grey(resistor wire)
All go to
Red/wht on the start/stop switch (aka yellow/red in the instructions)

Ignition side white goes to the other red/wht on the start stop switch. (Aka "red" wire in the instructions)

Which red/wht is which you ask? The one in the middle location is the hot wire (known as yellow/red in instructions)
The other red/wht is located on a corner (not middle spot). This wire is the switched fuel pump (red) wire in the instructions

Besides that the brown/wht and the red/grn from the ignition switch plug side are the two you solder together. (aka yellow/red and red wires in instructions)
 
06 igntion delete and toggle switch

Hi, I know this is an old thread but I was reading the excellent write ups here for the ignition switch deletes for the ZX6 track bikes etc.
I am in the midst of doing this on my own 06 636 but wanted to incorporate a simple 30A toggle switch in place of the igntion switch,
Does anyone have any pointers on wiring for this?

I have tried sketching it out and have come up with the following, (please do not take this as correct as I have not tried it yet).

White from ignition block to toggle switch input
Add wire from toggle output and join to Yellow/Red kill switch wire
Gray wire with resistor and brown wires to Red kill switch wire
Cap off yellow/red and red wires from kill switch at plug side

Does this sound like it would work?
I am not planning on using auxilliaries etc so assume other wires to ignition can be deleted?

Any help/guidance welcome before I potentially fry my bike.
Thanks.
 
Hi there may I say this is a fantastic thread an exactly what I'm looking for. I'm
Wondering a if the ing motion on a 2001 J2 zx6r is the same an needs a resistor ?? Can i also ask what if a 2w 100ohm resistor was used.
 
Hi I have 2008 zx6r I have road legal buggy and I have no ignition switch so I want to do what ur doing but I only have large white and brown wire and two smaller ones red and red/blue
 
fitted this up over the last couple of days into an Aussie model with immobiliser...

options are as follows:
1) relocate ignition under tank and wire in separate switch
2) get hold of US ECU and modify harness to accomodate the different wiring between the US and International models
3) get hold of US ECU and harness...

I couldnt get hold of a US harness so went with option 2...

My aim was to have the Harness and plugs as intact as possible so I could revert back to original setup if needed (ie - if it didnt work :) )

The Int. models don't have a grey wire due to the immobiliser being installed.. so the plan was to compare the 2 ECUs and Harnesses and chase what the int. Harness would do with the US ECU.

The grey wire is connected to the US ECU at the same place that the Int. ECU connects to the Immobiliser Amplifier (Blue/White wire). The Amplifier sits in the nose cone on the air intake, so conveniently positioned..


The resistor needs to go inline with the Blue/ White wire and have power connected to it. I did this with a supply from a red wire nearby that was previously for lights...

I didn't want to hard wire the resistor in place to make sure it was easily reversible, so I wired in a 2 pin plug that would have the power on one pin and the blue wire on the other.



Then I connected the resistor to a mating plug and inserted into the newly installed plug.



The next step was to connect the BRS to the main Harness. Again, not wanting to cut wires, and retain the original plug, I connected the white supply wire to one side of the BRS, and made a return leg from the BRS to the connector with 3 tails. The tails were connected to the Brown, Red and Red/ Blue wires. This would supply power to the main harness and the Accessories, giving both "On" and "Park" positions powered. While not totally necessary, I did this to give me power options around the bike in future as the park position power is on as well and save any stress later...

These were connected to the Harness Connector for the igniton with female spade lugs and heat shrunk in place..

Then reassembled the bike and good to go..





If ever I need to go back to the Int ECU, I can unplug the BRS at the ignition connector and plug in the original ignition, and remove the resistor by unplugging it from the new plug. Install the oem ECU and ready to roll...
Hi do u have wiring dia for 2008 as mine dosent have grey wire to ecu
 
fyi woodcraft now manufacturers a plug and play harness that plugs into your existing wiring harness that deletes the ignition cylinder (you just power up everything via the killswitch, and hit the starter). Costs $50 and you don't have to hack up your wiring harness. Works great for me so far (for US models only, with no immobilizer):

https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=KSEH
 
Hello! :smile2:

I need to rewire the AU model wiring (ECU #21175-0188) w/ IMMO to the US model ECU #21175-0163 w/o IMMO.
I know about 100 Ohm resistor installed in the IgnitionLock between the Battery "+" (W) and (GY) to power the ECU w/o IMMOs. But there is no correct wiring diagrams in the Service manuals to find which Pin number of the ECU's connector the GREY (GY) wire goes to!

Can anybody help me to understand which ECU Pin I need to power up from 24Pin (BR, Ignition) to ??Pin (GY) with the resistor inline?
 
Hello! :smile2:

I need to rewire the AU model wiring (ECU #21175-0188) w/ IMMO to the US model ECU #21175-0163 w/o IMMO.
I know about 100 Ohm resistor installed in the IgnitionLock between the Battery "+" (W) and (GY) to power the ECU w/o IMMOs. But there is no correct wiring diagrams in the Service manuals to find which Pin number of the ECU's connector the GREY (GY) wire goes to!

Can anybody help me to understand which ECU Pin I need to power up from 24Pin (BR, Ignition) to ??Pin (GY) with the resistor inline?
http://www.kawiforums.com/newbie-corner/341441-2008-zx-10r-ignition-resistor-question.html
 
Out of curiosity, why not just leave the key in permanently? Perhaps glue the thing in place, since this is a bike that's only going to be used at the track and you're removing the little bit of security that the key provides anyways.
 
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