you could just turn it on then walk to the front of the bike....
but yes, yes it does.

 

you could just turn it on then walk to the front of the bike....

what part of "been a while since ive had an intact 2010 650R..." dont you understand?

two thumbs down on your stupid answer

 

Actually, asshole, he did answer your stupid question. Have a little neg rep for being a short tempered dick.

 

Hold on... lemme turn it on... oh wait... no lights... why the hell did you think i asked ?

if ppl would stop assuming and actually read, these mistakes wouldnt happen

Ill repeat... "been a while since ive had an intact 2010 650R..."

 

Well next time you just wont get an answer, no need to be an ass.

 

right... hypocrit

 

I'm not an ass, I gave you a smart ass answer but an answer none the less.
I may have miss-read you first post, but there is no need to eplode over it, especially when an answer was given.
If you find it difficult not to flip out over small stuff like that, stay off a bike. you need to learn to let the small stuff go or your going to get hurt or killed out there.

 

in the efforts of keeping the connectors on the bike OEM without modifying them... this is the updated diagram of the wiring

if its too "busy"... its this but with the custom connectors ill be making

 

Can't follow it without a diagram of the relay, but assuming that that it's a two way switch with either pin 87 or pin 87 a as the hot output (but not both) and input load on pin 30, with 85 and 86 switching it,

you should have the existing Low +ve in 30 and the bulb low connected to 87 or 87a and the bulb high to the other one. If your dipswitch works backwards, swap them over.

The bulb ground can be connected through either of the bike harness connector ground wires. Use the Harness low connector for this.

Pins 85 and 86 should be connected to the bike harness High beam - one wire to each pin. That will switch the relay and switch between high and low beam. Again, connecting 85 and 86 the wrong way around could make the dip switch operate backwards if the relay is polarity sensitive.

If I've got the pin numbering right and if I've read your diagram correctly, what you're proposing seems right. I'm guessing that you're going to make a little sub harness that includes the relay and will plug into the existing high and low beam connectors and plug on to the H4 connector of your new light. I'm also assuming that you're fitting the LED unit.

Rob

 

85 & 86 are the relay coil, 30 is COM, 87 is N.O., and 87a is N.C.

The only way the relay would be polarity sensitive is if it has an internal flyback diode. In which case, wiring it up backwards would likely just burn up the diode but the relay would still function. Either way, it won't change the output behavior of the relay.

 

Rob you got it right... 87 & 87a are what is being switched, 30 needs a constant feed (so low beam is always powered), 86 is ground, and 85 is high beam harness and is the coil that determines wether or not the switch is tripped

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