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That looks sick. I'm taking the msf course this weekend, and after getting the license will be pulling the trigger on a '12 650 as well. I can't make up my mind tho, ..black or green? I'm leaning towards the black one and then taking it to a local paint shop and having that red spring painted kawi green (the red looks good and all, but it's just not me. Maybe some other highlights..we'll see. Can't wait to post pic of her.

So to all you experienced owners out there, what are the first must have mods or things you like to do/add to your bike when you first get one?
 
That looks sick. I'm taking the msf course this weekend, and after getting the license will be pulling the trigger on a '12 650 as well. I can't make up my mind tho, ..black or green? I'm leaning towards the black one and then taking it to a local paint shop and having that red spring painted kawi green (the red looks good and all, but it's just not me. Maybe some other highlights..we'll see. Can't wait to post pic of her.

So to all you experienced owners out there, what are the first must have mods or things you like to do/add to your bike when you first get one?
Well, i bought a matching jacket the same day lol but this is my first accessory purchase, these and a set of rear spools. Next will be a tail pack to carry a few items when riding solo.

Motorcycle Stand Set from MJ Moto Gear
 
well, he replied and said "It had to be this universal one because its the only one I have." so I'm guessing it is the one I linked above. Am I right rharsh28? And you didn't have to put any extra holes in your fairings?
Yes you are correct.. I got the universal one, and i didnt have to drill any holes. And yes i have a 2012 ninja 650..
 
Anyone tried doing an oil change on the new 650 yet? It's a pain in the #&$... Tore apart the side fairing to get the badly located oil filter and I cant get the thing off.
Using a oil filter wrench which has a metal band, the oil filter is metal, metal on metal just sliping and scatching but not comming off. The thing is on there so rediculously tight. Anyone attempted their own oil change yet? I would be interesting in your experiances and how in the world you got your oil filter off. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Anyone tried doing an oil change on the new 650 yet? It's a pain in the #&$... Tore apart the side fairing to get the badly located oil filter and I cant get the thing off.
Using a oil filter wrench which has a metal band, the oil filter is metal, metal on metal just sliping and scatching but not comming off. The thing is on there so rediculously tight. Anyone attempted their own oil change yet? I would be interesting in your experiances and how in the world you got your oil filter off. Any help would be appreciated.
I just had Kawasaki do the 3rd oil change on my 2012, services are so cheap here in Thailand it's hardly worth getting dirty to save $3-$4
The whole 12,000 (7500mile service), inc parts and oil cost me $35
But getting back to your question, nothing more than a sheet of fine sandpaper and a firm grip should see the filter turn loose. Try folding a piece of fine sandpaper around your filter wrench's band
 
Anyone tried doing an oil change on the new 650 yet? It's a pain in the #&$... Tore apart the side fairing to get the badly located oil filter and I cant get the thing off.
Using a oil filter wrench which has a metal band, the oil filter is metal, metal on metal just sliping and scatching but not comming off. The thing is on there so rediculously tight. Anyone attempted their own oil change yet? I would be interesting in your experiances and how in the world you got your oil filter off. Any help would be appreciated.
I did my first change myself. I have some oil filter pliers that look like bige vise-grips. I took that kawi one off and put a k&n back on because it has a welded nut on the end. K&n model kn-303. I didnt have to take my fairings all the way off just seperated them and reached in. Worked for me. Hope my info helps.
 
Thank you, I will try the sandpaper trick tonight.

Also the K&n model kn-303, I will order that for my 2nd oil change for sure and just tighten this new factory one by hand.
 
Trick for everyone, I dont know if it was thermal expansion or what. I was so frustrated when I was unable to take my filter off I ended up calling it a night. Went back to it the next day and it came off in like 5 seconds.. who knows..

Fairing were not fun, doesnt go back on perfectly now but I got it close, clips dont seem to stick in place at the top. Next time maybe ill try to just seperate the bottom 3 push pins is that all you did 50cal5niper?
 
1000km+ and a few mods impression

Done a 1000km+ including 4 160+km trips (50% highway 50% twisty) and had first service in Bangkok. Great bike; quick, nimble, comfortable but suffers from too soft suspension if 85kg like me.


Upgrading the suspension to Ohlins KA906 25000 baht Dirt Shop - fits without any modification, 1-2mm longer eye-to-eye than stock and YSS PD valves in forks 2700 baht Red Baron - greatly reduced the excessive nose dive / skippy unloded rear when braking and pogo tendency after cresting on the down hill run. The PD valves are absolutly fantastic performance value, shock pretty good too - can now corner at least 50% faster and brakes perform better!!


Tankbag 1500 baht is really good to have as are tank protector 420 baht and radiator stone guard 3700 baht (without the air-flow blocking ninja 650 plastered on the front - all from Motaholic.


Tail conversion 3500 baht Motaholic and Rascal skulls wheel stripes 800 baht ebay - I like.


New grips 420 baht Red Baron and levers 900 baht each Motaholic (dont know brands just looked good) are definite upgrades especially on longer rides, but stock were OK.


Power is good (last bike was Ducati 900SS albeit 20 years ago) pulls strong to 180 will do 230, 4th 5th and 6th feel much the same accelerating from 5000rpm (kept going for 7th until I clued onto 1000rpm = 22km/hr in 6th).


Recommendation: put YSS PD vales in forks and upgrade skock before thinking about power upgrades.
 

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Yea I tried an oil change the other day. I was taking the lower fairing off and the clips at the bottom were tough as fck to get off. I finally got the lower fairing but the nut for the oil was torqued on there or something cause it was on there good. I eventually gave up and paid my local bike shop 30 bucks to change the oil and inspect it
 
Done a 1000km+ including 4 160+km trips (50% highway 50% twisty) and had first service in Bangkok. Great bike; quick, nimble, comfortable but suffers from too soft suspension if 85kg like me.


Upgrading the suspension to Ohlins KA906 25000 baht Dirt Shop - fits without any modification, 1-2mm longer eye-to-eye than stock and YSS PD valves in forks 2700 baht Red Baron - greatly reduced the excessive nose dive / skippy unloded rear when braking and pogo tendency after cresting on the down hill run. The PD valves are absolutly fantastic performance value, shock pretty good too - can now corner at least 50% faster and brakes perform better!!


Tankbag 1500 baht is really good to have as are tank protector 420 baht and radiator stone guard 3700 baht (without the air-flow blocking ninja 650 plastered on the front - all from Motaholic.


Tail conversion 3500 baht Motaholic and Rascal skulls wheel stripes 800 baht ebay - I like.


New grips 420 baht Red Baron and levers 900 baht each Motaholic (dont know brands just looked good) are definite upgrades especially on longer rides, but stock were OK.


Power is good (last bike was Ducati 900SS albeit 20 years ago) pulls strong to 180 will do 230, 4th 5th and 6th feel much the same accelerating from 5000rpm (kept going for 7th until I clued onto 1000rpm = 22km/hr in 6th).


Recommendation: put YSS PD vales in forks and upgrade skock before thinking about power upgrades.
Where did you get the valves for the forks?
Was it an easy install ? maybe you could do a "how to" ?
Can you set rebound/compression and preload with these valves ?
I live in sweden so i will have to order it online for my er6n 2012 .
 
Done a 1000km+ including 4 160+km trips (50% highway 50% twisty) and had first service in Bangkok. Great bike; quick, nimble, comfortable but suffers from too soft suspension if 85kg like me.


Upgrading the suspension to Ohlins KA906 25000 baht Dirt Shop - fits without any modification, 1-2mm longer eye-to-eye than stock and YSS PD valves in forks 2700 baht Red Baron - greatly reduced the excessive nose dive / skippy unloded rear when braking and pogo tendency after cresting on the down hill run. The PD valves are absolutly fantastic performance value, shock pretty good too - can now corner at least 50% faster and brakes perform better!!


Tankbag 1500 baht is really good to have as are tank protector 420 baht and radiator stone guard 3700 baht (without the air-flow blocking ninja 650 plastered on the front - all from Motaholic.


Tail conversion 3500 baht Motaholic and Rascal skulls wheel stripes 800 baht ebay - I like.


New grips 420 baht Red Baron and levers 900 baht each Motaholic (dont know brands just looked good) are definite upgrades especially on longer rides, but stock were OK.


Power is good (last bike was Ducati 900SS albeit 20 years ago) pulls strong to 180 will do 230, 4th 5th and 6th feel much the same accelerating from 5000rpm (kept going for 7th until I clued onto 1000rpm = 22km/hr in 6th).


Recommendation: put YSS PD vales in forks and upgrade skock before thinking about power upgrades.
Nice to see another 650 in Thailand on this forum.
I was thinking about getting those YSS valves too, very cheap but i hadn't seen any reviews on them, i know what they should do but was waiting to hear a positive review. Red Barron is just around the corner from my house here in Bangkok, i'll go check them out at the end of the month.
I sorry to knock you down, but the 650 will not do 230kmph, 220 with a slipon and a long enough straight is possible but a true 230 is not going to happen with out some serious breathing on the bike's motor. :)
 
Yea I tried an oil change the other day. I was taking the lower fairing off and the clips at the bottom were tough as fck to get off. I finally got the lower fairing but the nut for the oil was torqued on there or something cause it was on there good. I eventually gave up and paid my local bike shop 30 bucks to change the oil and inspect it
Lower fairing to take off was a pain.. you take off the 3 push pins at the bottom, then you have to get behind the upper fairing to unscrew the screws behind it that attach to the lower fairing. How frustrating, it was a big pain in the .... just to get the lower fairing off. Next time i'm just going to try my best to just pull put the 3 push pins and seperate it a little. And how lame is the position of that oil filter. After getting the filter off the excess oil pours all over your pipes.. *do not attempt to open the oil filter until the bike is cold, but do drain the oil through the bolt when the oil is still warm. Only advice I can give.
 
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