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Powerhungry
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ok...BUT. you cant see the dogs. theyre on the sides of the gears. the teeth are fine on mine too.

im not sure if ur able to see them while the trans is together or not.
spooner might know. considering he just had his apart.

ive got some pics around here somewhere..lemme see if i can find them
 

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Discussion Starter #42
You can see them with the engine still together. With the forks and shifting drum out you can slide the gears apart to see the dogs and inspect them. The hard part is making sure you look around the whole gear(spin and see all sides). As you spin the gear it will usually binned because with all the shifting parts out your gears are all out of wack and conflict with each other. So just get you head under there with a very bright light and take your time inspecting. By the looks of your forks and your shifting drum(that thing is toast) there must be wear on the dogs for your gears.

Mines is back apart on the floor all the way down to the gears now. I am trying to get these stupid "C" clips off of the gear shaft so I can slide the gears off for inspection/replacement.
 

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OK nvm stupid question, I undid the clutch springs and took them out and then removed clutch plates.

Anywho, Since I haven't got a hold of the tool yet I tried a block of wood b/t the wheel and swingarm and the wood just got ate up so yea, gotta have the tool.

I have a large torque wrench that seems to provide enough leverage and I can use a pipe for extra leverage if needed. I don't feel comfortable using an impact gun :confused:
You don't need a clutch holder tool if you have an impact wrench. Remove the pressure plate (aluminum piece that has the springs) but leave all the friction and pressure plates in. Get you impact gun (I used an electric 1/2" drive one), press against the clutch plates and loosen the center nut. It will come off fairly easily. To tighten when installing, put all the plates back in the correct order and tighten. Check the torque value of he impact gun you're using to make sure you don't over torque when tightening. Most Air impact guns are adjustable for set values. If you use the clutch holder tool, make sure you don't nick the grooves of the hub or the steel plates may catch/ hang up on them.
 

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chicken or the egg....

does the jumping out wear the fork...or does the fork wear, and let the gears jump apart...
which happens first?
who knows...

but my fork looked like the above. not quite as bad as ur tho. about like spooners
Usually starts with forceful shifting (or from a crash that hits the shift lever) which bends the shift forks and it starts from there.
Sometimes a inadvertant partial or incomplete shift that slips out of gear (Cured with the Shift Star from FactoryPro). It's that dreaded sound of a machine gun that you hear (the edges of the dogs hitting each other trying to engage) when you try and put it back in gear which rounds out he corners of the dogs on the gears.

Those pics of the forks clearly show they are bent due to the uneven wear and the contact with the gears. Also the galling on the shift drum is from forceful shifts.

I've seen guys trying to get their bike in and out of gear (while parked) using their heels forcibly and just kicking it down or pulling the lever up hard with their hands. And they wonder why they have transmission problems.:rolleyes:
 

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Got the bike apart. My front fork won't come out. I've even took off the arm to the Star Shifter so I can move the drum and gears some and no dice, it won't come out.:confused: This is a bike I was riding the other day, so no shifting abnormalities short of it popping in 3rd. Lots of play in there, but that booger won't come out. As for the rear 2, I don't even see how they would clear the drum, but I haven't tried them yet. One of those butt kicker things. I guess I'll go back over and look at it again..............:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Did you remove the 2 hex screws that hold the plate that holds the rods in place? One is right below the rod on the left and one is below and to the right of the rod on the right in picture. Once you slide out the 2 rods all the forks should fall out.
 

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I went ahead and removed the rear forks, moved the drum around and then I got the front one out. I looked over the the gears the best I could. This is all I'm gonna replace.............




 

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Discussion Starter #52
Think bike bandit has the drum for 100 bucks.

That looks bad. The dogs on your gears are probebly worn from the hoping out of gear but you will have to split the motor to change them out.
 

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Unfortunately Spooner I'm not gonna do that. If I did, I'd have to sell my track day coming up. I could have not done anything and gotten by. I've been known to bypass 3rd and keep on going. I'll be willing to take my chances and see what happens. If it later requires more work, then the track days might be over for me. I'm on an extreemly tight budget and it only takes about $100 to make or break a deal on anything I do. We ZRX guys have a "hook-up" at a Kawi dealer I'm hoping will PM me back. Usually $25% off. So I hope I get an answer soon. My next couple weekends are full and that's about the only time I get to work on it. Tires and suspension setup today. I'll keep plugging along.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I have my fingers crossed that it does fix it. Riding the track with trans issues on your mind and having to skip gears sucks. I have had to skip 5th down straights before.
 

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I don't know too much about transmissions (yet) but basically there are multiple worn parts that are all contributing to second gear slipping out of gear.
Not sure how exactly the drum plays a role but I'm replacing it anyway cause it is very worn in one spot as you can see here



The shift fork is extremely worn and ground down a bit.
I would assume that the wear is causing the dog to not engage as far as it should
(hence it slipping out in the higher rpms)



With that in the equation, we now have the 2nd gear output. The edges are rounded off pretty good (from the multiple times its slipped I would assume) therefore it isn't going to lock into gear as well since it doesn't have that straight machined edge and is now prone to slip.




The top gear output has some wear on it as well (obviously since its dogs engage into the 2nd gear output

 

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QUESTION..im new on the site i have a 06 636 and this second gear slipping seems to be a common problem with the bikes, but after spending $1200 to fix it how long do you think it will be before it goes bad again
im debating if its worth fixing or just selling my bike!
 

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QUESTION..im new on the site i have a 06 636 and this second gear slipping seems to be a common problem with the bikes, but after spending $1200 to fix it how long do you think it will be before it goes bad again
im debating if its worth fixing or just selling my bike!
Don't bring your bike to the track and beat the pee pee out of it, that's one thing, and ride it a little nicer on the street and leave the racing to the more wealthier people.......LOL!!
 

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Don't bring your bike to the track and beat the pee pee out of it, that's one thing, and ride it a little nicer on the street and leave the racing to the more wealthier people.......LOL!!
Yeah just treat it nice by shifting properly and completely. Adjust your shift lever so that when you upshift, you engage the next gear. Don't force you bike into any gear. I have seen people use their heel to kick down to get it in gear while the bike is sitting still. It's the worst thing you can do. At least roll the bike back & forth a little.

As far as trackdays or racing, if you treat your bike right & shift properly, you won't have any problems with your transmission. I know endurance racing teams that have gone 2 seasons on 05-06 636 transmissions without ANY Problems. That's with 3 different riders taking turns on the bike for 4-6 or even 8 hours of continuous racing. Plus practices and Sprint Races the bike was entered in.

These transmissions are tough and made for racing. Some bikes have issues but most don't. If it was a problem with all 05-06 636 bikes, there would have been a Kawasaki service bulletin or a Recall.
 

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Yeah just treat it nice by shifting properly and completely. Adjust your shift lever so that when you upshift, you engage the next gear. Don't force you bike into any gear. I have seen people use their heel to kick down to get it in gear while the bike is sitting still. It's the worst thing you can do. At least roll the bike back & forth a little.

As far as trackdays or racing, if you treat your bike right & shift properly, you won't have any problems with your transmission. I know endurance racing teams that have gone 2 seasons on 05-06 636 transmissions without ANY Problems. That's with 3 different riders taking turns on the bike for 4-6 or even 8 hours of continuous racing. Plus practices and Sprint Races the bike was entered in.

These transmissions are tough and made for racing. Some bikes have issues but most don't. If it was a problem with all 05-06 636 bikes, there would have been a Kawasaki service bulletin or a Recall.

ill have to use this advice AFTER i get the bike fixed!
 

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I recently got all my OEM trans replacement parts that were worn (gears,drum,forks) along with my factory pro evo shift star kit. I'm a bit intimidated putting it all back together but if I run into any problems I'll be sure and post up. Here what I am starting from. . .

 
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