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Don't forget the 650 has a semi dry sump, and if you are doing wheelies too much, you run the risk of starving the engine of oil.
Hope your medical insurance is up to date.
 
YouTube how to wheelie a ninja 650. I take mine to 5500 rpm back off a slit second and pin it and the front wheel comes up no problem


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Works that way on my 09. It'll pull up the front wheel in 1st no problem. Or slip the clutch and same result. It's pretty predictable.
If you try hard enough, you could throw up a 250.

key word: try
I did a few on my Ninjette. But it felt like I was destroying the front forks, so I stopped...

yeaaaa im wheeling it baby!!!
today after work i found me a good quiet strait road and practice - the results -> i can wheelie!!!
but i wheelie high only with clutching it.
get it to 4 rpm clutch in full throttle and baaam the wheel is up and i am happy!

The only annoying thing is that some times my back tire slips even after droping to 20 psi on the rear :/

about the rebuild project, lol , i all ready crashed it 4 month ago and re build it brand new.
hit the road-rail at about 100kmh inside a turn :)
You and caps need remedial guardrail avoidance classes... Congrats, though. Practice makes perfect. Or injured. Either way, have fun!
 
If ever proof were needed that you don't need masses of power (or a clutch lever!)........


Note the index finger on the left hand covering the brake lever, smart young chap eh? Make sure you cover your rear brake too!
 
I could easily lift the front on my Versys with a throttle chop at 5000 rpm in 1st or 2nd no clutch action needed. My er6n (same tune as Ninja) is noticeably stronger than my Versys and I feel like I have to work to keep the front wheel down. I weigh 230 with gear and the bike is mostly stock. Not sure what is happening in your case.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
I think i might have got the answer.
my clutch is slipping bad!
after some good people here recommended the brp clutch spring i started reading and notice my clutch is slipping in high rev as well!
I read that a lot of stock ninja 650/er6 have problem with stock clutch spring been slip.
It could be a good explanation on why i am dropping the clutch with full throttle and the bike doesn't wheelie , right?
 
well it isnt that hard to do a wheelie... Beafore i bought er6n i rode scooters strongest was 600cc , when i wanted to do i wheelie i did it with gas only rode it arround 4k rpm cut throtle for a sec and busted it up and it bounces quite nicely . Trie with a passanger ( i know this is the worst thing you could do!!!!! ) but if it doesent go on a wheelie with pass than bike is broken...
 
Er6Stant - if your clutch is slipping, you are robbing the drivetrain of its ability to put power where you need it; the back wheel, so this definitely explains your problem.

Now, before you go changing out the clutch pack or some such, just check your cable is adjusted correctly.. Many many people get caught out with expensive clutch "repairs" because the cable is not adjusted right.. Also, the type of oil you are running will impact on the ER6 clutch, my Kawi dealer always runs a semi synthetic blend because they have had troubles with the full synth slipping on otherwise healthy bikes, and they do know kawi's well, it's almost all they do (sales and service).

Try an adjustment if the cable and a semi synthetic blend, if this simple check fixes your problem it will have saved you a lot of running around and expensive bills or time (if you do the work yourself) but I only suggest this because I don't know the mileage of your bike and such..
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Er6Stant - if your clutch is slipping, you are robbing the drivetrain of its ability to put power where you need it; the back wheel, so this definitely explains your problem.

Now, before you go changing out the clutch pack or some such, just check your cable is adjusted correctly.. Many many people get caught out with expensive clutch "repairs" because the cable is not adjusted right.. Also, the type of oil you are running will impact on the ER6 clutch, my Kawi dealer always runs a semi synthetic blend because they have had troubles with the full synth slipping on otherwise healthy bikes, and they do know kawi's well, it's almost all they do (sales and service).

Try an adjustment if the cable and a semi synthetic blend, if this simple check fixes your problem it will have saved you a lot of running around and expensive bills or time (if you do the work yourself) but I only suggest this because I don't know the mileage of your bike and such..
The cable is well adjusted , I'm sure the clutch is slipping because when i ride 3-6 gears around 5 rpm and then pull full throttle the rpm go high in a second but the bike isn't accelerating as needed.
I use a full synthetic oil and i think this is the problem.
I also already ordered the BRP strong clutch springs :)

Is it a problem to go to half synthetic oil? do i need to change the oil filter as well or just drain the oil and put the new one in?
 
verify the cable has enough slack. if its too tight, it will cause the clutch to slip.
and, this is usually the problem.
unless the clutch has been abused for a very long time, or you have a shitton of miles, i doubt its worn out.
 
If your not doing wheelies and your just getting slip in the top end riding spiritedly then the BRP Springs should help ae?

Mine has always slipped in top end so have been following this thread but my adjustments look fine so it could just be the speed and rpm I'm changing at which would be springs right?


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If your not doing wheelies and your just getting slip in the top end riding spiritedly then the BRP Springs should help ae?

Mine has always slipped in top end so have been following this thread but my adjustments look fine so it could just be the speed and rpm I'm changing at which would be springs right?


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Yes the BRP clutch springs will stop any slipping your experiencing. Some people just don't realize how bad the stock springs let the clutch slip under hard acceleration. Hell for $20 just give them a try and if you don't like them put the stock ones back in. I'm pretty sure you'll like them, the only downside is the clutch pull is harder. I think it's worth it though for the gain in performance.
 
Good point..

Is it hard to change 'em?

Can't say I've ever changed clutch springs before...

Mine doesn't slip, but it's not running a full synth blend..
 
No it's not that hard to install them, if you have the repair manual see section 6-8. Start by draining the oil. I have heard people say they didn't have to , You need to remove the clutch cable from the lever on the case cover. Take all the bolts of the cover and remove the cover carefully so you don't ruin the gasket. once the cover is off you will see the bolts holding the stock springs the rest should be self explanatory.
 
I am going to try the stiffer springs. I always wheelie my 2012 650 when i hit second gear. I take first to around 6-7k, i never really look i just feel the rpm when i get there. When i shift to second i pop clutch and pull the bars up. And i sit al the way to back of seat. I let it come up nicely and hit third. Never have hit fourth though, 80 on the rear tire is plenty fast for me.
You know, i want to say when i changed to full syn that is when i started noticing the clutch slipping some. I will try the springs before i use syn blend. I would rather keep using the full syn.if possible.
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I use Mobil 1 4t, and I'm not so sure that was the cause of the clutch slip. I seem to think that the stock springs lost their tension, the clutch lever actually became mushy feeling.
 
I used mobil once and.my clutch whent out. I'm sure it was a coincidece but i never used it again just to be sure. I either use syn blend lucus 10w40 or castrol full syn. Both available at an auto parts store. I need to change oil in both bikes now. Trying to wait to get the springs.

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My local autoparts store doesn't carry Lucas or Castrol motorcycle oil, just Mobile 1 4t and some crap brand.
 
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