115 mains are too big for a slip on and stock header. If you are getting too much fuel reduce the main jet size. 3 shims may be 1 too many. Start by turning the mixture screws all the way in, then turn in the mixture screws 2.5 turns out on both.

 

i put the 112 and adjusted the fuel mixture every possible position and it still doesnt want to stop stalling. i pulled out the entire kleen air system and just bent the tubes and ziptied them instead of finding plugs. now i noticed it also ran to the fuel petcock and i just took the tubing cut it down and zip tied it. only way it works is if the petcock is in PRI the entire time. is it safe to run just pri??? unless my fuel pump is broken but i wouldn't see why it is. i give up on it tonight and ill try it again tomorrow. the 110 they threw in gave me problems too after riding it for 10 minutes so that's why im doing this. they also warped my damn diaphragm but i made it work i think.

 

There is no fuel pump on the Ninja 250. The fuel delivery system is gravity feed/ vacuum operated. The petcock needs the vacuum hose hooked to it to operate. Leaving the petcock on PRI could possibly lead to the carbs overflowing.

Is the bike stalling at idle, mid throttle or WOT? Is it stalling while it is cold or warm?
Are you using the choke?

 

yea thats what i meant vacuum. ok so i removed the kleen air system where does the hose go now? oh thats not good then.

it runs for a good 10 mins while im on throttle then right before i park i rev it up and it just dies. then it stays dead until i put the petcock to PRI and i adjust the screws then i put it back to ON and runs then dies. i just have that second tube that ran behind the tube that goes to the carb zip tied shut. so i need to run that back to the carb since the kleen air system is removed and blocked off?

 

There was a tiny hose that attached to the kleen air valve and a big one attached to the reed valve cap on top of the head. Those hoses can be removed and blocked off at the t connector. All other vacuum lines stay attached. Make sure the vacuum lines that you are blocking off do not leak. Vacuum caps work best.

 

i took out the entire kleen air system and just blocked off where the big T shape hose connected so nothing is going to or coming from that area. i then just directly connected a hose from the carb to the petcock behind the hose that brings the gas to the carb on the side.

 

ok i found it. i had cut the hoses from the kleen air system but i found the same size hose thankfully and connected it from the front middle of the carb (the gold nosel with the little bulb in it) straight to the second nosel on the petcock and so far no problems. should i adjust my screws now or just leave them? they're pretty much flush with the bottom of the opening where the fuel mixture screws go in to. i wonder what that nosel on the carb does? is it a vacuum?

 

dirty carburetor. i also found sand in both diaphragms and one of them were warped too.

the second nosel on the petcock a little blurred out in the back and i connected it to this directly:

and kawasaki did this to both sides of the carbs...

 

the bike is working perfectly took it for a good 20 minute test drive and no problems, just alot more power in the take off which is amazing. i forgot to hook up the choke but i might just take it off anyways since i won't need it anymore. it starts up without any sputtering and doesn't need to warm up to take off now.