I had coolant boil out street riding. It only happened once but after that the temp stayed way higher than normal... 235-240.... I flushed the cooling system and nothing. So i changed the thermostat and ever since the bike has been running back in its normal range. Its only a 30 dollar piece so why not check that first. Don't forget to order a new gasket when you order it.

 

Did you put on the radiator cap on properly? I didnt do that and it felt snug but wasnt seated right. The air came in and boiled my coolant.

Edit: as i reread your post, i had the same exactly problem

 

yeah, i think i'll order a new thermostat just to be safe and see if it fixes it when i get the money.

and yeah the cap is on correctly, i've put it on more than once and still have the problem so i know its not going on wrong every time, plus i wasn't the only person to put it on

 

how many miles are on it? timing being off due to needing a CCT bump will directly affect EGT. A/F obviuosly will as well, but theres a bellcurve to that shit.. you can be at 1500*F and be rich OR lean.

are you the same "Hagata" of b.a.r.f. fame?
if so, and this was your spill..

then you'll want to inspect the flow rates of your coolant system. a pinched or collapsed line, fractured impeller or air bubble that won't migrate will cause hell.

unlesss i'm a total retard and completly missed the mark on the post, there should not be too many things that can cause you troubles.

 

you probably just need a new radiator cap.

 

that would be too easy! if i can't fix it without buying anything radiator cap and thermostat are on my shopping list.

 

yeah, thats me diving for my quarter ahahah.

theres around 8k on the bike off the top of my head

after that crash, my lower radiator hose came off and i was leaking water wetter on the track (caused a red flag..sorry guys) and so when i got back my bike was hot, i checked all the hoses then and they checked out. no holes or pinches?

whats this about "fractured impeller"?

 

hahaha, get the cap. yes too easy

 

well, sorry to hear about your crash man.. welcome to KF tho! good to have ya here.. lol we were impressed at your lighthearted take at the pics and all on barf.. lmao

anyway, the impellers are cast aluminum. some are even thermoplastic. any sever shock coupled with thermal gradient changes can fatigue the material to te point of fraxcture.
as well, an old pump may be eroded as well. simply not being able to pump the volume needed.

i'd at least inspect the pump and impeller. if the fins are nice and sharp, and the nut on te end of the shaft hasn't eroded off and everythings minty, i'd look at motor health in general. whats timing set at? whats the fuel up to?
is it an EGT-oriented heat induction?

lots of small variables.
might be as simple as that thremostat, or the cap, could be a sign of hread gasket pressure leak, could just be nature of the beast, could be timing affected from chain slack, could be a collapsing hose or core, or shit in the radiator tubes.

 

w0w that is a lot it could be..

hopefully it wont be too much work, i need to be able to get on the track and worry about things other than my bike overheating..

 

lets hope its somethin uber simple bro!

i sure as hell do hope it's something stupid like the t-stat or cap being weak.

i just try to cover al lthe bases. part of being a miserable bastard and a pessimist!

 

hello everyone!!!
i need help with overheating too...
okay- today i noticed that my FI light came on. i rode home and started looking for possible problems. I realized that my exhaust actuator is not working, so i just left it untill i will by the Ivans exhaust actuator eliminator. than i rode a little more and found out that my fan would not kick on at 210 degrees. the temp just kept rising...
Just for info about a week ago i changed my antifreeze, and the guy at the store recommended to use an "engine ice", so i did. everything worked fine until today.. also, after i took off the radiator, i noticed that my fan was making some noises after it would kick on....
So my question is - what could it be and how i could check what codes my FI is throwing...
Please help, any help appreciated...

Thanks a lot for your help and have a safe a good ride..........

 

theres a small wire all by itself under the seat that you short to the frame. the manual will call out a sequence to do it in to access different OBD modes.

the FI light might be showing a sensor failure. i want to say it's a dedicated temp switch tho, but i'm not really sure. i'd have to look at the wiring schematic and trace it out and see where it goes. it may as well feed the ecu and the ecu tells the fan to turn on or off.

the noise could be fan failure as well. maybe the heat melted the blades and deformed them, maybe theres something causght in there, possibly a bearing failing.
lots of things it could be.

i think the exhaust valve is spring loaded to open by itself, but when i start to think about it, if the servo is stuck, that might overheat the motor from the backpressure generated. then again, you'd notice this as a direct loss of power, especially under heavy load at mid-high rpm.

that too can trigger a fault light.

 

unfortunately i do not have manual, can someone explain how to perform a system check to find out what codes i have to fix......

 

hey amduscias, the fan is not supposed to kick in until 214 degrees! About the noise, inspect visually for melted parts or see if parts are touching by spinning it (with the bike OFF of course)

 

i know that the fan should kick on at certain temp, but the temp just keeps rising above 230 and more, then i stop the engine....
i will take the plastics off this weekend to see if can find if something wrong with a fan...