Strange and in need of clarification

You start your post by stating you had low speed issues 'then' went on to try and rectify the problem.

So if i read correctly you have exactly the same low speed running issue you had before touching the Bike ?

I get it that you have inlet valves open when they should be closed but i'm trying to get straight what came first.

On your Valve timing issue it's really inconveniant that the Motor sits that close to the frame, Can you posta pic with the cams in and linned up....

 

Sorry, Yes I have the same low speed issues. I bought the bike used at 9K miles and had the issue from the beginning. I adjusted the valves at 12K miles as most were "tight". I'm at 20K now. It runs good from 4k rpm on up. I might work on the bike tommorrow, so I'll try and get pics.

 

May need to unbolt the cams and rotate the crank one complete turn and line it back to 1/4 TDC mark and then reinstall cams. Take the rocker cover gasket out of the head when trying to line up the marks a mirror comes in handy also.

 

Yeah Tyrell, was thinking about doing that next. Thanks guys.

 

guess you didnt index anything with a paint marker before teardown huh..

not sure what rotating the crank a turn will accomplish. 360 degrees of crank rotation is 360 degrees of crank rotation. tear down, drop front mount bolts to see the sides of the cams, set #1 to tdc, align timing rotor mark, align cam marks, assemble. win. ride. don't tear down timing components without indexing them first..

 

And don't ride the engine below 4 grand. If you're in 5th or 6th gear and trying putz around at 3000 the engine is going to buck and whine, besides fouling plugs.

Plus it's gay.

Josh

 

curious as to where you're getting shitty running below 4 grand at?
mine runs and pulls like a fucking tractor from IDLE. maybe it's my tune and build.. maybe it's the bike.. but i'll be damned if the thing carries on even the slightest bit off idle and below 3 or so. thru town i'll roll in 6th gear at about 1800-2000 rpm and it sounds like a hoss and still has balls to pull out of the way of cages.

 

^^^please explain how this pertains to his problem...nevermind, dont care.

im with ******, dropping the motor to get a better view, wont take but another hr or 2.

at first i was going to say wrong shims, but thatd only cause issues on a cyl or 2...also a bent valve would do the same thing. so yea, im with ya, timing must be your issue.

only thing i can suggest is to remove the tensioner and try again...or again again in your case.

 

Cam chain needs to be set to 26 pins mark to mark.

When doing a compression check, you must do it with the throttle WOT or just remove the carb rack to get the proper reading.

Also repeat with some oil in each cylinder or just do a leak-down.

To clarify my previous statement, the 7 doesn't like to run below 4 grand anyway, especially below 3 grand. No need to putt-putt around below that, keep the engine happy you have to rev it.

Josh

 

Well, the low speed problem I'm having is the bike chugs at around 1500-3000 rpm giving no gas. When I give it gas from 1500 rpm then let go at 3000 then give it gas again, it chugs. If I gun it from idle, no problems. If I'm in traffic, this chugging gets kinda annoying.

About the leak down test, #1 wasn't in the compression stroke so I did that wrong. I get 90psi in and 88 psi on the output gauge which gives me 2 percent leak which is good. Still getting 80 psi on compression test on all cylinders. Battery is kinda new and carbs are out.

 

thats WAYYYyyy low compression. should be probably 130 or so.. i have to consult a manual to confirm a number, but that shit is mad low for compression.
could be a major part of the problem..

 

i make enough money to not give a flying fuck about efficiency. the money saved in ticket avoidance makes up for it. whats the point of riding thru a 25mph zone over 4000 rpm?
there is none.

i'd LOVE to see, btw, where i'm adding wear to components that are actually under LESS stress. pump losses? pressure remains above what it takes to maintain a boundary layer as does the flowrate.
and bikes are geared for speed, son.. guess that didn't occur to you? you're too worried about fucking more information up like how often my bike runs. it runs now. it's always ran. your cute little quip about a fucked up front rim doesn't mean shit about the state my engine is in. again.. come back when you've got some fucking legit info instead of talking out your ass tryin to prove somethin kid. i've forgotten more about building engines than you'll learn in the next 10 years.

 

You have more money than t worry about gas? Coming from someone who was unemployed for how long?

Read up on engine power band and efficiency and you'll learn a thing a two because obviously you don't.

Not sure where you get the idea 4000 is a lot? That's just getting things started.

Josh

 

where the FUCK are you getting this?
GOD you're truly amazing. love how you ack like you know me or have all this super-accurate info..
LULZ
being unemployed is why i have over a grand in my wallet from a 5 day turbine repair job in central city kentucky at the DB wilson power plant..
ok. i'll play
being unemployed is why i get up and am out the door monday-saturday to build engines and fix cars at first class auto sales on the corner of market and evans in wilmington nc..
being unemployed is why i work out of my house when i'm not clocked in at the car lot or out of state on a turbine service call.... pretty much work 7 days a week.
BUT, what do i know. you obviously know my life better than i do.. the only exception to constant employment being my 60 day convalescence after a crash in august.. but. hey.. you musta been there and you HAVE to know whats going on, being you're frighteningly on-the-spot with your fantastically accurate descriptors of my goings on.

4000 ISNT alot. not at all. but, again, why do it? theres no point.. but being the sage fuck you are, you'd know that.
am i racing? do i need an instant 100hp to shoot me out of some side street? do i need to buzz the horseback-mounted cops in a 25mph zone where people randomly dart out due to their inebriated state?

ya. shit i should really ride at 6 or 8K whilst going down these roads, huh.
great info! thanks for that!
i'm glad after 10 years of riding and racing i have you to help make me a better rider and teach me all i never knew about engines and such.

 

Yeah the manual states it should be 149-228 psi. What I don't get is the leak down is good, but the compression is low.

Bent rods or timing?

What needs to be removed to tilt the engine forward?

 

typically just the front mounting bolts and the upper rear bolt. otta give you enough rock to see whats going on with the gears. a wet compression test (using a capful of ATF) will point at rings if the comp numbers rise significantly after a dry test baseline is established.
if theres no change it's usually a head gasket of valve seating problem. leakdown testing with the radiator cap off with a faulty head gasket produces bubbles in the coolant system. soapy water around the valves in the ports will bubbles if seats are fried.

 

Thanks White. Just out of curiosity, is it possible for the cams to be pressed on from the factory wrong or out of position?

 

no prob man.
i doubt it highly as all bikes have to be run on a dyno before they leave. i never say never, but it's highly unlikely.

 

unbolting the cams and turning the engine over one complete turn is something that has been discussed on the Redmonkey, Ken H20 originally brought it to light. Don't ask me why but it has solved more than ones person problem when lining up the cams.

Cheers!