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Not sure what to make of that reply... lol
lol Then my job is complete. I will say one thing, when I drained the motul- it was still green. Mostly my oil goes in brownish and comes out darker.

Maybe the motul needs more time to work?
 
It's hydro-cracked oil... which is NOT synthetic.

A full synthetic oil uses ZERO hydrocarbons in production. Rotella can only be labeled as a 'full synthetic' in the US where the oil standards are more relaxed. Rotella T6 anywhere else in the world is called a semi-synthetic...
Most Synthetic Motor Oils today are Hydrocracked. That I know of, only some Amsoil motor oils and Mobil 1 are not, but that doesn't mean they are better oils.

:rolleyes:
 
Then my job is complete. I will say one thing, when I drained the motul, it was still green. Mostly my oil goes in brownish and comes out darker.

Maybe the motul needs more time to work?
I dunno... I never get that many miles on my oil. The drag bike gets changed ever other race weekend with full synthetic motul 5100 or Mobil 1, whichever is cheaper.

The extra 636 doesnt get ridden much, so its only had one oil change. It was fresh when we bought it, but we changed it anyway, and Ive changed it once since after 1000miles and it was still minty fresh Motul.

The R6 has like 9k miles on it now and has had the oil changed probably 20 times due to track days. I change it after every two track days if I dont ride it between them, and every track day if I do. Motul 3100. It always comes out almost like it went in.
 
Most Synthetic Motor Oils today are Hydrocracked. That I know of, only some Amsoil motor oils and Mobil 1 are not, but that doesn't mean they are better oils.

:rolleyes:
Theoretically, it is and it isnt. It should have all the same sized molecules that act the same way, and are engineered to be very good at their job. That said, the homogenous molecules dont necessarily penetrate as deep into the porous metal surfaces like you would see on a conventional or blend oil. Conventional and blends dont typically last as long, but if you track or race, you should NEVER see the end of an oil change's usuable life. Also, I dont recommend those stainless filters, as they are higher micron size and allow more shit to pass.
 
Most Synthetic Motor Oils today are Hydrocracked. That I know of, only some Amsoil motor oils and Mobil 1 are not, but that doesn't mean they are better oils.

:rolleyes:
Synthetic =/= Full Synthetic. Wow, thanks for the lesson??!! I already knew that which is why I made the point that it ISN'T A FULL SYNTHETIC.

Hydrocracked by definition is NOT a full synthetic. And why I run Mobil 1 in my car and truck. It's a proven product.

In my use the T6 underperformed when compared to oil that was no more than $20 in price difference. Not worth $20-$40 per year for me.
 
Which by definition is NOT a full synthetic. And why I run Mobil 1 in my car and truck. It's a proven product.

In my use the T6 underperformed when compared to oil that was no more than $20 in price difference. Not worth $20-$40 per year for me.
I tend to agree with you here. Besides, as much as Ive spent on bikes and track days and shit, I would hate for my tendancy to be a cheap ass to screw me over, over a measly $20. Really, its the maintenance thats important, especially for you street only guys. Oil doesnt hardly ever fail on its own, regardless of type, brand etc. When it does fail, its usually due to neglect. If the bike maker did their job and properly engineered the lubrication system, the oil you use shouldnt be a problem for the most part. When you step up to track days and racing, you may need to look into KIT parts like a high volume oil pump, cooler, etc.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Please explain because Shell Rotella says that Rotella T6 is FULL SYNTHETIC:

Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic

:dunno:
No. It's a cracked oil and is therefore not truly synthetic.

I still think it's a great oil but it's not a true synthetic.

Maybe Im a fool, but Im not sure what difference it makes how the shifting "feels" so long as the thing shifts quickly without missing gears. Most missed shifts are rider error IMO, and the last thing I want to think about laid over into turn 2 is how my shifting feels.... I dont get a warm fuzzy when it slips in butter smooth vs. a little notchyness.... And if you are swapped to GP, its almost impossible to miss an upshift anyway. I would be WAY WAY WAY more worried about my oil lubricating my motor adequately at high rpms in extreme conditions (like a 100* track day) than what it does for my shifting smoothness.... just sayin...
I don't know what to tell you man. I used to feel the same way. If you don't believe me, check out some of the oil threads where I've called people on it. I am directly contradicting my previous position on it. The fact is that I ride damn near every day to work and since I've gone to Amsoil the shifts feel harder and clunkier. It's not missed shifts. I almost never miss shifts. It's just how smooth the shift feels. And that smoothness tells me, right or wrong, that it's better on my transmission.

See, Im with you. If I recall correctly, Rotella is heavier diesel oil, something I wouldnt even consider running in my bikes. I know its quality oil, just like Delo, but I get great results from Motul blend. Yeah, its a little more, but its good shit and I dont miss shifts on the track or the street...or the strip. I have gone for questionable upshifts midcorner on 110* track days with no troubles....

Again, I think the variable here that is the most inconsistent is the nut attached to the handlebars....:D
You're recalling incorrectly, or more likely you're making this stuff up in your head based on how you perceive diesel oil. It is 40W oil at temp, just like any other oil. That's all there is to say about that. I'll just say that I have no interest or incentive in convincing you, but your perception on this is wrong.

It's hydro-cracked oil... which is NOT synthetic.

A full synthetic oil uses ZERO hydrocarbons in production. Rotella can only be labeled as a 'full synthetic' in the US where the oil standards are more relaxed. Rotella T6 anywhere else in the world is called a semi-synthetic...
:werd:
 
Synthetic =/= Full Synthetic. Wow, thanks for the lesson??!! I already knew that which is why I made the point that it ISN'T A FULL SYNTHETIC.

Hydrocracked by definition is NOT a full synthetic. And why I run Mobil 1 in my car and truck. It's a proven product.

In my use the T6 underperformed when compared to oil that was no more than $20 in price difference. Not worth $20-$40 per year for me.
YOU Change OIL once a year????

:eek:
 
No. It's a cracked oil and is therefore not truly synthetic.

I still think it's a great oil but it's not a true synthetic.



I don't know what to tell you man. I used to feel the same way. If you don't believe me, check out some of the oil threads where I've called people on it. I am directly contradicting my previous position on it. The fact is that I ride damn near every day to work and since I've gone to Amsoil the shifts feel harder and clunkier. It's not missed shifts. I almost never miss shifts. It's just how smooth the shift feels. And that smoothness tells me, right or wrong, that it's better on my transmission.
So basically its a personal preference thing. I honestly prefer the more solid shifts, as I know for sure I've caught the next gear.


You're recalling incorrectly, or more likely you're making this stuff up in your head based on how you perceive diesel oil. It is 40W oil at temp, just like any other oil. That's all there is to say about that. I'll just say that I have no interest or incentive in convincing you, but your perception on this is wrong.

I thought I was clear that I wasnt sure about the Rotella, but thanks for being condescending about putting me in my place. It seems that while you are trying to disagree, your post is somewhat in agreement with what I have been saying.... being that "it is 40W oil at temp, just like any other oil" as you so succinctly put it.

:werd:
You dont have to convince me of the viability of my oil, I have tens of thousands of miles, hundreds of drag passes, and plenty of track days that tell me my oil works just fine. :D
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Synthetic =/= Full Synthetic. Wow, thanks for the lesson??!! I already knew that which is why I made the point that it ISN'T A FULL SYNTHETIC.

Hydrocracked by definition is NOT a full synthetic. And why I run Mobil 1 in my car and truck. It's a proven product.

In my use the T6 underperformed when compared to oil that was no more than $20 in price difference. Not worth $20-$40 per year for me.
What's the underperforming you're talking about?
 
03Black636

Mobil 1 is around $10/quart while Rotella T6 is around $5/quart

4 quarts of Mobil 1 = $40
4 quarts of Rotella T6 = $20

So you're spending $20 more than I do per every oil change.

and I bet you change oil every 3000 miles!! Yikes!! :eek:
 
Yeah, my car and truck get regular old quaker state from walmart and a fresh filter every change.... I dont know about full synthetic in those. :lol:
Me either screw that!!

I have three vehicles plus my bike! Can you imagine using Mobil 1 on all of them!! Screw that I need mo money to buy cool stuff not motor oil.

:D

Rotella T6 FTW
 
wtf! my ip has been banned, and i have never been on the site! although, this is at my work
 
Me either screw that!!

I have three vehicles plus my bike! Can you imagine using Mobil 1 on all of them!! Screw that I need mo money to buy cool stuff not motor oil.

:D

Rotella T6 FTW
Hell, I have a truck, a car, three sportbikes, a quad, a dirt bike, and a scooter between the wife and I... Mobil 1 in all of those would rape my paycheck...which is small enough as is...:lol:
 
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