I'd check if your button is stuck/shorting out or if your battery terminals are contacting properly. When you disconnect the battery clock resets. but that'd cause other issues with running so i'd check the buttons first, if it's a 2021 it should still have warranty from kawi so I'd take it to them either way.
2021 Ninja 650 clock keeps resetting
Anyone else experience this or have a solution? Bike runs normal. Clock just keeps resetting randomly.
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We did install a USB plug into the accessory port in the dash. It has a voltage meter built in. Was at 13.7V when I arrived at work this am. Was at 11.9V at lunch time. Looks like we might be doing a manual start after work today. I have not added any mods like heated grips, but I have replaced my tail lights and turn signals with a tail tidy with sequential LED. That was in May of this year. I suppose that would be reason enough for them to not honor my warranty. I'll know tomorrow and will definitely update the forum when I do.
Pull the charger off the battery I'd bet that's your issue, parasitic draw, I had a USB port too that was killing my batteries, was fine when I rode the ER every day, but in the winter it killed 1 battery anyway (it was 8 years old anyway so didn't think much of it) but then it killed the new battery by the end of the next year when I stopped using the ER every day in favour of my new bike. I bought a lithium battery for the ER originally so that completely discharging it wont be the end but then I found out it's the same size and spec as the one in my XR so I just put the lithium in there and the XR's old battery in the ER, I've also gone and pulled the fuse from my USB charger and lo and behold battery still holding 12.2V after sitting for 3 months. For me keeping the fuse in the spare slot of the fuse box is an acceptable solution, I can just pop it in if I need the charger, for you it might make sense to wire in a manual switch further up stream.
I used to park the ER6 outside in the winter and it'd seriously flatten the old Lead acid battery, that's what first got it, when I had to jump start the bloody thing for 3 days in a row I had enough, the AGM battery I replaced it with died whilst in a brick walled garage and it never got too cold in there.Thanks for the tip. I do plan on rewiring the USB because I do not like the constant draw, even though the voltage indicator is convenient. I installed that outlet 5 months ago and my parking garage is nearly the same temperature all year round, so I can't assume that it's a "cold weather" drain. It is odd that the bike would not start after sitting for only a couple of days. Also, if the battery did not have enough charge to start the bike, why didn't the clock reset? Now my bike has been sitting at the Kawasaki service department (for 2 days) and they have not been able to recreate any of the weirdness that I have been experiencing. They said they would perform a load test on the battery today. I'm very anxious to find out the result.
"Also, if the battery did not have enough charge to start the bike, why didn't the clock reset? "
Re this, actually the way it starts is at first it'll struggle to start, when you press the starter, it will turn it over then start this clicking noise, that's the first sign battery is low, 2nd stage is when it starts with the clicking, 3rd stage the clocks still come on but the moment you ask it to deliver charge to the starter all you get again is clicking but this time the clocks also just go off, this is when the clock gets reset. You probably haven't got to this stage yet. Or maybe there is a bigger capacitor in the newer ninja's screen that may take longer to discharge and lose time and trip info since it's digital (or is that for the 2020 model onwards? who knows), either way it might just need more time without power to lose that info.
11.9 V is perfectly rescuable, a good charge without any drainage and I'd bet that battery will be back to normal voltages, these ebay USB chargers with the voltage readouts especially definitely drain enough to take that much out of the battery in a day, easily. It's just what it is. Either way don't immediately go buying a battery when the techs will inevitably come back with those "dead battery" load test results.
That "dead" lead acid battery i mentioned actually managed to keep a charge of 11.3V almost 2 years after I removed it from the bike, and it was the first battery I tried when the AGM died, and it did work but then I left the bike for another couple weeks and the drain killed that battery too for good.
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