I'd check if your button is stuck/shorting out or if your battery terminals are contacting properly. When you disconnect the battery clock resets. but that'd cause other issues with running so i'd check the buttons first, if it's a 2021 it should still have warranty from kawi so I'd take it to them either way.

 

It seems to be a loose battery connection. Take the cables off your battery, clean them well with a metal brush, and hook them back up. Something like this happened to me with a rented motorcycle when I was touring Europe. It was definitely an unforgettable experience. It was a good thing I was still in town, and I had the opportunity to approach a motorcycle service to help me. So before you venture into such an experience, read more about the country and the cities you are in. I use this riderly.com website with recommendations. On where to rent a bike about the prices, which is the safest city and so on.

 

Like Emma say's . Check the most obvious thing first . Battery , then solenoid , fuses . Grounds . In that order ....

 

The battery is probably on the way out. When you crank the engine, if voltage falls below a certain threshold, the clock would reset itself.

 

Does the trip meter also reset to zero? If so then your battery is going out or you have a loose connection.

 

I don't know about resetting, but sometimes the clock is a couple hours off. Went for a 3+ hour ride today and the whole time I thought nothing of it until I checked my phone and my TPS monitor. Both said 1pm, but the dash clock was like 2:45pm. It's happened to me a few times. The bikes a 2020 and not a year old yet. If it's the battery I already have a lithium I was gonna use in my Ninja 1000. I'll check the voltage on the dash and see what's up.

I've never had any odometer reset issue.

 

I also have a 2021 Ninja 650. She's got less than 7,000 miles on her. About a month ago, my clock just randomly reset itself. It's only happened that one time and it was just the clock that was affected. I checked the battery connections and all was secure and clean. This morning, when I went to start her, my battery was dead. When she came to life, the check engine light was on and stayed on all the way to work. I'm headed to my dealership tomorrow to find out what the heck is going on. I ride my bike almost every day and have had no other issues. Have you taken yours in for service? I'm sure that if there's an electrical issue, it will be covered under warranty. 🤞

 

Hell, yours is so new they should cover the battery at the very least. I ride daily so chances are if there's a drain somewhere I won't notice it for a long time.

Let me ask you all this...

Any electrical mods on your bikes? If so they'll not honor the warranty unless it's a factory mod like the 12V adaptor or heated grips. Even then they'll probably argue if you did the install instead of them.

If you have a 2020 or above I suggest on your dash that you monitor your voltage in your display. I believe you toggle the right button till it shows up. The left button is for the odometer functions.

 

Interesting thread. So Kawasaki will void any warranty even with a LED turn signal mod? Or would it just be for electrical claims?

 

That's ANY manufacturer will not honor a warranty, in this case electrical. If you put on an aftermarket exhaust you've just voided the mechanical warranty. Much less adding a PC with the exhaust.

KimsHaven.... I've highly modded my bike. Full Hindle Megaphone exhaust, TST Industries LED integrated tail and turn signal with tail tidy. That required also buying their turn signal relay, which is adjustable, to eliminate hyperflash. Full ECU flash and removal of the O2 sensor and including the PAIRS block off.

Mine is WAY past warranty...lol.

 

The Hindle Megaphone exhaust was under $600. Just a tad above $600 because I also bought the silencer. You'll need that! Is as loud as a Harley without it and sound great with it. I've had Two Brothers, Leo Vince, Akropovic. Save your money. Hindle sounds so much better.

I got the ECU flash from 2WheelDynoWorks... $239. Mail it out. They're fast with returns. You can have it flashed for a stock setup. They have multiple muffler/exhaust choices and make for any configuration, like if all you did was the exhaust they would open it up for you. Very happy with them. Cost me like $9 USPS Priority. Got there in two days came back on the fifth day.

If you're into luggage, do NOT get the factory Givi tail bag setup! It stresses the frame. This is a Hepco Becker C-Bow side case system. Multiple variety of bag options. Around $500 including those bags. 18 liter per side so low profile. I also have the factory touring screen and this picture doesn't show it but I have OES frame and front wheel sliders now.

The seat cushion is great. $30 on Amazon. Rode 3.5 hours and no butt soreness.

 

Nice! I've never seen those bags. I have SW Motech. They were super expensive, but really nice bags.

 

I thought of that, but I just don't have the time nor the inclination to re-wire the old turn signals. My bike is my primary method of transportation. She did start up after work. I was really surprised because the voltage meter read 11.9V and I wasn't feeling confident about it. Something did happen, though. It seemed like the left button on my TFT screen was stuck. This might be the cause of my problems. Stay tuned! @Antares, fingers crossed.

 

Check out the voltage regulator connector. Could be that it is not firmly engaged. That would eventually cause the battery to receive charging randomly. I would suggest removing the connector from the regulator, inspecting the pins searching for anything abnormal to the eye, and firmly engaging it back.

 

The programming of the tail light is done on the back of the unit. You'll see. The flasher relay is already set to the correct flash rate but is also adjustable. The tail tidy is separate and you can choose a fixed or adjustable angle license plate mount. I got the adjustable one.

 

Thank you very much Wabbit!! You can beat that clean look!!

 

Check out the YouTube videos. They show the complete install. They have a Ninja 650 all tricked out with their stuff and a video on everything they do. They also offer LED front turn signals but I hate taking the fairings off. I'm lazy that way. But they're video makes it look easy and the turn signals are really sharp.

You have the 2021. I like those graphics. Especially the white down low.

 

Just found this forum by googling same issue. I have a 2021 Ninja 650 with 5500 miles. My clock has randomly reset twice now. Bike runs perfectly otherwise. I’ll give my dealer a call. Seems like it’s not just me…

 

2021 model here. No dirty/loose battery connections. Battery always on Battery Tender. Aftermarket LED tail lights/LED underbody lights. Wrong clock time was random but been ok lately.

 

This is a little late but I have similar problem with my 2020 Ninja 650. I bought it new towards the end of 2020. With less than 1000km/600miles on it I started it at the gas station and the clock reset to 1:00pm. No other issue, no problem with the odometer or anything else and the bike started first shot like it always had. On the 1000km/600mile warranty inspection I raised the issue and the Kawi dealer was able to replicate the problem. They took off the entire front fairing and checked all wiring, the solenoid, battery connections and starter button and all seemed perfect. Then sure enough one random day a couple of weeks later it did it again upon starting, usually when the bike was hot. Over the last couple of years it would happen every once in a while. However, last year it evolved into more of a starting issue whereby engaging the starter button there would just be a few clicking sounds and nothing else. Then hitting it again it would start first shot. Battery charge was always perfect as is voltage going into the battery. Over the winter this year I took apart the throttle assembly and gently filed the starter button contact points. Tried it and it started first shot, but again the clock reset to 1:00pm. I will see this riding season if that fixed the starter issue but it definitely didn't fix the clock resetting upon starting. So if anyone has any solutions to this I would be very interested.

 

My only guess would be low voltage from the battery. A new battery may fix this.

 

If you hear a clicking sound when you push the starter button, then it is not that button: it is probably a bad starter solenoid. The clicking sound you hear is indeed the starter solenoid trying to engage the starter motor. Even though the solenoid itself is working, its main contacts probably have an issue and are not able to bridge the starter motor with the battery. When the battery is low, instead of a click you hear a PRRRRRR while you have the starter button depressed.

 

Thanks Pablo, because of the rarity, randomness and intermittent nature of the odd start/clock reset I just started there as that was the quickest and easiest thing to eliminate. However, it hasn't fixed it. The battery with a charge of 12.96 refused to start it yesterday again. Just the clicking for as long as the starter button is pushed. I fiddled with a cable connection just past the starter relay and then tried it again and it started first shot. I waited another half hour and again just loud clicks. So that didn't fix it either. The clicks sound like they are coming from the starter motor, it makes the same sound when the juice to the starter motor isn't enough. My wife also has a 2020 Ninja 650, which doesn't have this problem. I'm going to swap the batteries today just to rule out any battery oddity. My sense is that the starter motor circuit when activated is losing some of the current like a loss somewhere. Thanks again for your response.

Kevin

 

Kevin, if you have a multimeter/voltmeter on hand, try to read the voltage value at the starter motor terminal. When you push the starter button you should get anything from 10V or higher depending on battery condition and how much sag the starter motor is causing. If you press the starter button and just hear a click and you don´t read any voltage at the battery post, then the starter solenoid is at fault. If you read full battery voltage but the starter motor is not turning, then the starter motor is damaged. Also, verify the thick black wire at the negative battery terminal. That is basically the return for the starter motor. Verify that wire fixing point on the engine case and on the battery side.

 

Hi Pablo, here is the strange thing. My battery voltage at rest (before trickle charge) is 12.63. On my wife's Ninja 650 (same model year 2020) it's 12.62. Her bike starts first shot no problems. So I swapped the batteries. Now my bike starts first shot and hers is just like mine now, no start just what sounds like starter motor clicking(typical low voltage battery problem). So it is clearly the battery. But what I don't understand is if the 2 batteries are reading the same voltage before a starting attempt, why does my battery not do the job? I also checked both batteries after turning on the key and waiting for fuel pump and both batteries register the same draw and subsequent voltage available prior to start attempt. Strange eh?

Kevin

 

Kevin, I´ve seen that happen! One of the bridges inside the battery is just barely making contact. When there is no load you can read normal voltage but as soon as the load is high enough the weak point cannot cope with it. That should be reflected on the voltmeter. I suggest you install a lithium battery. They are far more reliable and powerful. You will notice that on the first push of the starter. No modifications to the electric system are required.

 

Pablo, you're exactly right! Turns out there are bad cells in the battery. So while the voltage readings are normal the amps were insufficient. That explains why even when the bike was new, the clock would sometimes reset during a start as there was a power surge. Now that problem has gone from the occasional irritating power surge(causing clock to reset) to the occasional not starting situation, which is now almost every second time. The lithium replacement sounds like the way to go but I was getting conflicting warnings about using battery tenders on them(a necessary thing here in the northern climate). So I just replaced it with a similar 'BS Battery SLA AGM' which seems to have good reviews and was over 3x cheaper than the lithium option.

Thanks again for your good advice!

Kevin

 

With a lithium battery, you just need a compatible trickle charger, Kevin, like the one below, or any other similar unit. Lithium batteries are sooo much better in terms of power and weight saving that once you´ve gone that way you wouldn´t go back. Glad the new battery fixed the problem on your bike!

Deltran Battery Tender Lithium Gel Motorcycle Charger 1.25A 6V 12V 734357220025 | eBay

 

Was there ever a solution to this issue? My 21 plate ninja 650 has been doing this, I replaced the battery and it solved it for a few weeks but it’s started doing this again

 

Hi Pmack, in my case my problem was with my stock battery. I had good voltage, however the amps available on draw were weak or intermittent. I was fortunate that my wife has the exact same bike and vintage and also has the stock battery. I checked both with my volt meter and mine was actually slightly better than hers prior to start, however she has never had the clock reset problem or my recent starting problem. So I swapped batteries and sure enough her bike encountered the starting problem I had. I got a new battery($80CAD AGM) last month and since then everything has been fine. I've probably ridden at least 15 short return trips since the replacement, so at least 30 starts with no issues. I will update if I start reencountering clock reset and/or starting issues.

Kevin

 

It was the battery, sagging below the voltage value at which the clock would reset.
Install a better battery, preferably a lithium one.

 

Ok, think it was a agm battery I installed, might need to look into a lithium one then, any suggestions on decent ones?