I also have a 2021 Ninja 650. She's got less than 7,000 miles on her. About a month ago, my clock just randomly reset itself. It's only happened that one time and it was just the clock that was affected. I checked the battery connections and all was secure and clean. This morning, when I went to start her, my battery was dead. When she came to life, the check engine light was on and stayed on all the way to work. I'm headed to my dealership tomorrow to find out what the heck is going on. I ride my bike almost every day and have had no other issues. Have you taken yours in for service? I'm sure that if there's an electrical issue, it will be covered under warranty. 🤞
2021 Ninja 650 clock keeps resetting
Anyone else experience this or have a solution? Bike runs normal. Clock just keeps resetting randomly.
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We did install a USB plug into the accessory port in the dash. It has a voltage meter built in. Was at 13.7V when I arrived at work this am. Was at 11.9V at lunch time. Looks like we might be doing a manual start after work today. I have not added any mods like heated grips, but I have replaced my tail lights and turn signals with a tail tidy with sequential LED. That was in May of this year. I suppose that would be reason enough for them to not honor my warranty. I'll know tomorrow and will definitely update the forum when I do.Hell, yours is so new they should cover the battery at the very least. I ride daily so chances are if there's a drain somewhere I won't notice it for a long time.
Let me ask you all this...
Any electrical mods on your bikes? If so they'll not honor the warranty unless it's a factory mod like the 12V adaptor or heated grips. Even then they'll probably argue if you did the install instead of them.
If you have a 2020 or above I suggest on your dash that you monitor your voltage in your display. I believe you toggle the right button till it shows up. The left button is for the odometer functions.
I have the TST tail tidy too! I love the flashing brake light. It's nice to be more visible. I have not upgraded my exhaust system yet. It was my plan to replace after the summer season. I also want to replace the chain and rear sprocket. Blew a big chunk of cash on a cross-country trip last summer (including new tires), so I just need to financially recuperate for a minute.That's ANY manufacturer will not honor a warranty, in this case electrical. If you put on an aftermarket exhaust you've just voided the mechanical warranty. Much less adding a PC with the exhaust.
KimsHaven.... I've highly modded my bike. Full Hindle Megaphone exhaust, TST Industries LED integrated tail and turn signal with tail tidy. That required also buying their turn signal relay, which is adjustable, to eliminate hyperflash. Full ECU flash and removal of the O2 sensor and including the PAIRS block off.
Mine is WAY past warranty...lol.
Factory warranties are such crap, though. They find any excuse to void it.
I thought of that, but I just don't have the time nor the inclination to re-wire the old turn signals. My bike is my primary method of transportation. She did start up after work. I was really surprised because the voltage meter read 11.9V and I wasn't feeling confident about it. Something did happen, though. It seemed like the left button on my TFT screen was stuck. This might be the cause of my problems. Stay tuned! @Antares, fingers crossed.
Nice! I've never seen those bags. I have SW Motech. They were super expensive, but really nice bags.View attachment 139739 The Hindle Megaphone exhaust was under $600. Just a tad above $600 because I also bought the silencer. You'll need that! Is as loud as a Harley without it and sound great with it. I've had Two Brothers, Leo Vince, Akropovic. Save your money. Hindle sounds so much better.
I got the ECU flash from 2WheelDynoWorks... $239. Mail it out. They're fast with returns. You can have it flashed for a stock setup. They have multiple muffler/exhaust choices and make for any configuration, like if all you did was the exhaust they would open it up for you. Very happy with them. Cost me like $9 USPS Priority. Got there in two days came back on the fifth day. View attachment 139738
If you're into luggage, do NOT get the factory Givi tail bag setup! It stresses the frame. This is a Hepco Becker C-Bow side case system. Multiple variety of bag options. Around $500 including those bags. 18 liter per side so low profile. I also have the factory touring screen and this picture doesn't show it but I have OES frame and front wheel sliders now.
The seat cushion is great. $30 on Amazon. Rode 3.5 hours and no butt soreness.
Thanks for the tip. I do plan on rewiring the USB because I do not like the constant draw, even though the voltage indicator is convenient. I installed that outlet 5 months ago and my parking garage is nearly the same temperature all year round, so I can't assume that it's a "cold weather" drain. It is odd that the bike would not start after sitting for only a couple of days. Also, if the battery did not have enough charge to start the bike, why didn't the clock reset? Now my bike has been sitting at the Kawasaki service department (for 2 days) and they have not been able to recreate any of the weirdness that I have been experiencing. They said they would perform a load test on the battery today. I'm very anxious to find out the result.Pull the charger off the battery I'd bet that's your issue, parasitic draw, I had a USB port too that was killing my batteries, was fine when I rode the ER every day, but in the winter it killed 1 battery anyway (it was 8 years old anyway so didn't think much of it) but then it killed the new battery by the end of the next year when I stopped using the ER every day in favour of my new bike. I bought a lithium battery for the ER originally so that completely discharging it wont be the end but then I found out it's the same size and spec as the one in my XR so I just put the lithium in there and the XR's old battery in the ER, I've also gone and pulled the fuse from my USB charger and lo and behold battery still holding 12.2V after sitting for 3 months. For me keeping the fuse in the spare slot of the fuse box is an acceptable solution, I can just pop it in if I need the charger, for you it might make sense to wire in a manual switch further up stream.
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